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Sark (Channel Islands)  
By Mojo  
Sunday, 24 July 2005

Where is it? 

Sark is a beautiful island lying just eight miles east of Guernsey. It may be surrounded by the English Channel, but its three-mile long by one mile wide landscape, houses everything from secluded beaches to mysterious caves once used by smugglers. 

Where should I be heading?

With a population of just over 600 people you’d be forgiven for thinking that there is no life on the island.  Instead when you arrive there is a hubbub of action. Tractors and horse led carriages thunder up and down the dusty paths delivering luggage and holidaymakers to their accommodation. This is very much an island for chilling out and perhaps writing that novel you’ve been meaning to get round to. The scenery and views from the cliff tops are stunning and out of this world. Hidden beaches make long walks that ever more enticing and of course having a cream tea is always one way to recharge the batteries.

Entry requirements:

You will need to get a boat to Sark from Guernsey, which takes approximately 45 minutes. The Isle of Sark Shipping Company is where you can purchase tickets and they are situated right by the pier.

Health:

Lots of sun tan cream/block is obligatory. There is no pollution at all so the sun’s rays are more penetrating and during the day in the summer can be scorching.

Top 5 things to do:

1. La Grande Grève – Get your walking boots on because it’s well worth it. Lying some 290 feet from the top of La Coupée (causeway between Sark and Little Sark) is the rocky beach of Grande Grève. You won’t find many climbing down at once because of the imposing cliff face that awaits for the return hike, so make the most of being at one with nature. 

2. Hire Bikes – For a reasonable amount and a choice of at least three cycle hire shops this is definitely something you should consider. You’ll find that most people get around on bikes so it can be a little like Amsterdam at times but once you hit the open dust lanes it’s just you, countryside, potholes and trying to steer yourself away from bushes. Marvellous!

3. Little Sark – Sark’s little island is connected by a long winding causeway – La Coupée that stands impressively 80 metres above sea level. It looks like a miniature version of the Great Wall of China and in 1945 was reinforced with concrete and handrails by German prisoners of war. On little Sark you’ll find the acclaimed La Sablonnerie guest house which extends its welcome to passers by where for £4.80 you can have a full cream tea which includes cucumber sandwiches – for the posher visitors, I think! If you hike to the end of the island you will come across the partially visible silver mines and if you can endure a steep scramble, the Venus Pool where you can take a dip in its clear water.

4. L’Eperquerie Common – A cycle ride to the north of the island reveals more stunning views and blissful greenery. Because people are so trusting on the island you can just prop your bike up against a wall or bush and it will still be there a few hours later if you decide to go off the beaten track. This part of the island is very pretty and the contrast of rocky cliffs and the blue tropical waters provide the perfect backdrop for a picnic. There are many caves to be explored at the bottom but only if you are certain of the times of the tides as this can obviously lead to something quite dangerous if you aren’t in the know.

5. Stroll and eat ice cream – There’s nothing quite like strolling. Whether it’s a strenuous hike or a pleasant evening walk – fill your lungs with the fresh air and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of Sark. We had time to admire people’s front gardens, which were spectacular, like something from Kew. Sark ice cream is also the best I have tasted for years. On the way to Little Sark there is a stopping point. At Carragh Chocolates you can buy small tubs of home-made ice cream – the honeycomb flavour is heavenly!

Is it expensive?
Not too bad, but eating out at the seafood eateries can be rather heavy on the wallet. Accommodation ranges from £25 per person per night to more costly stays at the classier hotels.

What's the food like?

The only think about Sark that differs from mainland holiday spots is the fact that because of the relatively small tourist trade during off peak times of the year, it can make eating out rather difficult. It’s best to check with the restaurants whether they are going to be open, or book ahead. We arrived at one, which supposedly said it was open, but on asking we were told that if we weren’t a party of six they wouldn’t be opening. The restaurants attached to the hotels offer an abundance of seafood, but at extortionate prices its best to stock up on provisions from the local grocery store.

What are the toilets like?

Being an island full of cliffs and rolling green hills there aren’t that many WCs to spoil the landscape. You’ll find some just off the Avenue where the shops are but its usually easier to go back to your accommodation which is never too far away.
What to wear:

Being so close to the coast of France the temperatures can soar quite high. Warm weather and lots of walking naturally make us hot, so shorts and t-shirts are recommended. Sturdy walking boots too if you are planning to venture down the rocky paths to the beaches and coves.

Best time to visit:

Summer time is obviously a good choice because of the best weather but be warned it can get very busy. 

Don't miss:

The Seigneurie. The Seigneur of Sark opens his gardens and home to the public at certain times. Apparently the gardens are spectacular but it was closed when we were there, so we missed out on that.

Most overrated thing:

The toast rack. No…nothing to do with bread! It’s actually the name given to the contraption that you get pulled up to the top of the harbour hill by – namely a tractor with a carriage on the back. It’s the most uncomfortable ride ever. The guide books show it without any people on it but at full capacity you are practically moulded against the person in front of you and you have to do the splits because there’s nowhere to put your knees. Dreadful! Needless to say on our departure we walked down!
(5/5)

 

Photos: Mojo


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