Contents

1. Pipeline basics
2. REPAIRING A LEAKY

3. UNSTOPPING CLOGGED

4. How to Install a Water System Supply

5. Repairing toilets

6. Repairing fractures

1.0 Pipeline basics

If the baffling array of materials in the plumbing section of your home-improvement center
intimidates you, take heart. The plumbing system in your home is simpler than you might think.
Master plumber Ed Del Grande offers some straightforward information about pipes, fittings and the
fundamentals of plumbing repair.

The foundation of your plumbing system is good piping and strong joints. Pipes may be made from
a variety of materials, including cast iron, ABS plastic, Pex piping, etc. The most common used
materials for residential plumbing, however, are copper pipes for water-supply lines and PVC plastic
for drain lines (figure A).
Figure A

Though copper piping is relatively expensive, it's durable and comes in a variety of grades. Type M
is the most basic grade and meets minimum building codes. It is thin-walled tubing and is marked
for identification with red lettering. Type L is about twice as strong as type M and is a good choice
for upgrading your plumbing system. It is marked with blue lettering (figure B). Type K is even
stronger and is intended mainly for commercial use. It is marked with orange lettering. Soft copper
tubing is sold in a coil and bends easily. It's well suited for use in tight spaces and in situations
involving awkward bends, and it requires fewer joints.

Figure B

Regardless of grade, all copper pipe accepts the same fittings. Copper fittings may include
(clockwise from bottom) tees, male threaded adapters, female threaded adapters, couplings, 45-
degree offsets and 90-degree elbows.

A tubing cutter is the best tool for cutting copper pipe. Turn the handle to tighten the blade against
the pipe (figure C) as you twist the cutter around the pipe in a circular motion. Several turns are
usually sufficient to cut through the pipe. Most cutters also include a reamer tool--a short blade
used to remove metal burrs after the pipe has been cut. A mini-cutter (figure D) is handy for
cutting pipe in tight spaces.

Figure C
Figure D

1.1 Soldering, or "Sweating," a Joint

Soldering--using a torch to join two metals together--is a common technique for joining pipes.
Always wear protective glasses and follow proper safety precautions when working with a soldering
torch.

Materials:

Copper pipes and fitting

Emery cloth or pipe-cleaning brush
Flux
Silver solder
Soldering torch and striker
Tubing cutter
Safety glasses

1. Begin by preparing the pipe to be soldered. The copper surface must be clean in order to
form a good joint. Clean the end of the pipe on the outside with emery cloth or a specially
made wire brush. Do the same with the inside of the fitting (figure E).

Figure E

2. Apply flux--a paste formulated to remove oxides and draw molten solder into the joint--to
the surfaces to be joined. Use a brush to coat the inside of the fitting and the outside of the
pipe (figure F).
3. Push the two pipes to be joined firmly into place so that they "bottom out"--i.e., meet flush
inside the fitting.
4. To avoid over-soldering, bend the tip of the solder to the size of the pipe ( figure G).

Figure G
5. With the pipes and fitting in place, ignite the torch with the striker. (Some torches are
equipped with auto-igniters, so a striker may not be necessary.)
6. Wearing safety glasses and keeping the torch well away from your face, use the tip of the
blue flame to heat the pipe ends and fitting (figure H).

Figure H

7. After heating for a few moments, test whether the copper surface is hot enough by
touching it with the end of the solder. If it melts, touch the solder to the joint seam, and
watch for it to run around the joint (figure I).

Figure I

8. Turn off the torch and wipe any drips of excess solder from the joint with a rag.

Compression Fittings

Another method of connecting two pipes is by using compression fittings. These strong and reliable
fittings can be put on using just a pair of wrenches. Because these fittings don't require heating,
they work well in situations where you're working with wet pipe.

1. Before attaching a compression fitting, remove any burrs or debris from the inside and
outside of the pipe ends.
2. Slide the compression nut onto the end of the pipe (it should fit snugly), followed by the
ferrule and the compression body.
3. Slide the nut and ferrule onto the fitting threads, and hand-tighten.
4. Firm the joint by using two wrenches to tighten the nut and fitting body securely (figure
J).

The compression fitting consists of (left to right) a compression nut, a brass ring, or "ferrule," and a
fitting body. The ferrule has beveled edges, and as the nut and fitting body thread together, they
compress the ferrule to form a watertight seal.
Figure J

1.2 Flare Fittings

To create a stronger connection than you can achieve with soldered or compression fittings, use a
flare fitting. A flare fitting consists of a flare nut and flare body. There's no ferrule because the
copper pipe flares out, forming a lip that is sandwiched between the nut and body. Flaring the pipe
requires a specialized tool. For this type of fitting, use at least type L or soft tubing.

Materials:

Copper pipe
Flare nut and flare fitting-body
Flaring tool
Two wrenches
Tubing cutter

1. To install a flare fitting, first remove any burrs from the pipe ends, then slide the flare nut
onto the pipe. Push it back far enough so that it will be out of the way when you use the
flaring tool.
2. Clip the pipe in the flaring tool, keeping the end flush with the face of the tool (figure K).
3. Slowly turn the handle on the tool until it bottoms out.

Figure K

4. Unscrew the handle and remove the tool to check the quality of the flare. (If the flare isn't
smooth or even the first time, cut off the end with your pipe cutter, and try the technique
again.)
5. Line up and tighten the nut and flared pipe to the fitting body (figure L). Make the
connection as tight as you can.

Figure L
Tip: Solid brass compression and flare fittings may cost ten times as much as copper fittings--and
take twice as long to install. Use them where the most durable connections are required.

1.3 PVC Pipe, Fittings and Joints

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) piping has revolutionized modern plumbing. Before PVC was available, most
drain lines were made of cast iron and connected at joints with molten lead. Like copper, PVC pipe
comes in different grades or "schedules." Schedule 40 is sufficient for most home plumbing,
although the heavier schedule 80 is an option for more substantial jobs.

Cut PVC using a short, thick-bladed PVC saw. Line up the saw square with the pipe and, using short
strokes, make a groove at your mark (figure M). Now apply pressure and use longer strokes. After
making the cut, use the tip of the saw to ream out burrs. Always wear safety glasses when cutting
PVC.

Other options for cutting PVC include a power miter saw or a PVC cable saw. A power miter saw is a
great time saver and makes cleaner cuts. A masonry blade is recommended when cutting PVC with
power saws. Always take proper safety precautions when working with power tools.

When using a cable saw (figure N), begin by looping the saw around the pipe and holding both
handles firmly. Quickly move the cable back and forth, beginning with short strokes. As you
lengthen the strokes, the rapid motion creates heat, and the cable melts its way through the pipe.
Break the pipe off quickly before the plastic cools and hardens.

Figure M

Figure N

"Welding" PVC Piping

PVC joints are "welded" with chemical bonds rather than a torch. Creating the weld is a two-step
process involving PVC primer and PVC cement (figure O). The chemical reaction fuses the pipes
and fittings together, and if the process is done properly, the joint formed is as strong as the pipe
itself.
Figure O

Materials:

PVC pipe and fitting

PVC primer
PVC cement

1. Always wear protective glasses and gloves when working with these chemicals. Protective
glasses are especially important when working overhead, as chemicals could drip into your
eyes.
2. Spread primer on the outside of the pipe (figure P) and the inside of the fitting. The primer
cleans away debris and begins to react with the plastic, softening the pipe.

Figure P

3. Smear cement over the same areas of the pipe and fitting.
4. Push the pipe ends firmly into the fitting (figure Q) and twist.

Figure Q

5. Hold the fitting and pipes stationary until the joint sets.
6. Run water through the drain system to make certain the joint doesn't leak.

2.0 REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-TYPE FAUCET

 Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal
washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing
the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this
increases the internal damage to the faucet.

 To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture,
turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the
basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.

 Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older
faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the
center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife
blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or
cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many
modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut
beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the
"on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig.
1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.
 Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and
get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.
 Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by
a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this
should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact
match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass
screw.
 The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the
washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer
replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-
dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets
needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet
along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the
chips.
 Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a
flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a
screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its
center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To
replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and
hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen,
clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint
compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove
during future repairs.

 It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling
washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off
the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the
seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this
allows it to outlast fixed washers.

 Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back
together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or
silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
 If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You
may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their
lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing
around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're
applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these
stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut,
then tighten it another half-turn.

2.1 REPAIRING A NOISY FAUCET

 A noisy washer-type faucet is usually caused by a loose seat washer. To stop the noise, first
turn off the water and take the faucet apart as described previously. If the washer is loose,
tighten it or replace it.
 After threading the stem back into the faucet body, try moving it up and down. If it moves,
the stem is worn and the entire faucet must be replaced.
 Some faucets are noisy due to poor design and construction. The only way to solve this
problem is to replace the faucet with a quality one.

2.2 REPAIRING WASHER-TYPE BATH AND SHOWER FAUCETS

 To take apart a bath/shower faucet for repair, first turn off the water. Then take the faucet
apart by removing its handle, escutcheon and packing nut. The packing nut may be buried
deeply in the wall, requiring a socket wrench for removal.

 Your bath and shower faucets may have a renewable seat that can be smoothed with a
seat-dressing tool or removed and replaced using a seat wrench. For replacing and
repacking the washer, follow the same instructions provided for a washer-type faucet.
Some faucets may need a complete replacement of the combination stem/seat unit.

2.3 WASHERLESS FAUCETS

A leak in a washerless faucet usually indicates that the working parts need replacing. Often,
prepackaged repair kits are available. Kits may contain all the necessary parts, or may include
only the specific parts that need replacing. Follow the instructions for installing the replacement
parts. Washerless faucets on tubs and showers are repaired in the same way as those on sink
and washbasins.

2.4 DIAPHRAGM-TYPE FAUCETS

 The diaphragm faucet is washerless but is similar to washer-type faucets. A rubber

diaphragm between the stem and seat creates a straight-down, frictionless close. As with
washer-type faucets, diaphragm faucets have two handles.

 Remove the stem by following the steps outlined for washer-type faucets. Instead of a
washer on the end of the stem, you'll find a swiveling disc. If the rubber diaphragm doesn't
come out with the stem, it is still inside the faucet.
 If the diaphragm didn't come out with the stem, use pliers to peel it from inside the faucet
and pull it out. Install a new diaphragm around the swiveling disc, then replace the stem in
the faucet.
 If the faucet is leaking around the stem, replace the stem's O-ring before reinstalling the
stem.

2.5 DISC-TYPE FAUCETS

 Disc faucets may have one or two handles. The water is controlled by openings in the two
discs. When the discs are rotated to align, the water flows; when the discs are misaligned,
the water shuts off. If the discs wear, the worn discs cause the faucet to leak. Simply
turning the handles harder will not stop the leak.

 To repair a leak in a two-handle disc faucet, turn off the water and remove the handle on
the side that's leaking.
 Use pliers to pull the disc assembly out of the faucet (Fig. 4).
 Beneath the disc unit is the seat assembly, or seal. Replacing this special O-ring may stop
the leak.

 You may need to install a whole new disc assembly for faucets that have been used over a
long period of time. In this case, all moving parts of the faucet will have been replaced and
should last as long as the original discs did. The parts of some disc units snap apart into a
separate bonnet assembly and bottom cap.
 To repair a leaking single-handle disc, turn off both the hot and cold water and remove the
handle to expose the disc assembly. Take out the screws to lift the assembly out of the
faucet (Fig. 4).
 You'll notice that beneath the disc unit are three O-ring seals. Though unlikely, water could
be leaking between the unit and one of these seals. In this case, you may be able to stop
the leak by cleaning the disc assembly and faucet body and installing a new set of seals. If
that doesn't work, the entire disc unit must be replaced. This will renew all moving parts.
 Replacing the unit is fairly simple. Place the three O-rings into their recesses in the bottom
of the disc unit. Then install the unit and tighten the screws. Finally, replace the handle–
and you're done.

2.6 BALL-TYPE SINGLE-LEVER FAUCETS

 The single-handle faucet with a ball inside to control both hot and cold water may either
leak at the spigot or at the handle. A handle leak is usually caused by improper adjusting-
ring tension. Simply adjust the tension to stop the leak. Leaks at the handle can also result
from a worn cam gasket. Dripping from the spigot is usually caused by worn spring-loaded,
soft rubber seat assemblies.

 Parts for ball-type faucets are available in kits. Get the spring/seats kit for spigot leaks, or
the complete kit for handle leaks. It may be advisable to use the complete kit to replace all
working parts of the faucet at the same time. In any case, you'll need a kit containing the
spanner/hex wrench for removing the handle (hex end) and turning the adjusting ring
(spanner end).
 Without turning the water off, loosen the handle set screw. Slide the handle from its stem.
 For a handle leak, try using the spanner wrench to tighten the adjusting collar (Fig. 5).
Tighten it by turning the wrench and collar clockwise until the faucet doesn't leak when it is
turned on and off. If the adjustment is too loose, the faucet will leak. If you turn it too
tight, the handle will be hard to move. When the adjusting ring cannot be turned with the
wrench, it is corroded. At this point, you will need to remove the cap to free the adjusting
ring. (See next step.) You must turn the water off before removing the cap! Apply
penetrating oil to the threads, remove the ring and clean all parts before reassembling.
 Install the seats. For faucet leaks at the spigot, you must install new rubber seats and
springs. You must turn off the water to make this repair. Unscrew the chrome cap by
turning it counterclockwise. If it won't turn easily, wrap electrical tape around the cap and
turn it with pliers. The adjusting ring, which is threaded into the cap's center, will come off
with it. For a seats/springs replacement, pull the ball up and out by its stem. The gasketed
cam will come with it. Now you can locate the two rubber seats and springs inside the
faucet body. Remove them with pliers or yours fingers and install the new ones. The
springs go into the holes first, and the cupped sides of the seats fit over the springs.

 Service the ball. If the ball is dirty or coated with scale, clean it or replace it with a new
one. Both plastic and brass balls are available, but use a plastic one if your home has hard
water.
 Reassembly. Put the ball and cam back into the faucet with the slot in the side if the ball
fitting over the pin in the faucet body. Then make sure the tab on the cam slips down into
the notch in the body. Not aligning the tab and notch is the number one cause for a faucet
leaking after it is repaired. Finally, screw on the cap and adjust the ring as described in
Step 2. If a properly adjusted ball-type faucet leaks at the cap, the cam and gasket must
be replaced.
 Swing spouts. If a single-lever ball faucet leaks at the base, you should replace the O-
rings. Remove the spout-retaining parts, as well as the spout. Wrap the spout-retaining nut
with electrical tape to protect it, and remove the nut with a wrench or pliers by turning
counterclockwise. Remove the spout by pulling it up and side-to-side. One or more O-rings
should now be exposed (Fig. 5). Take the O-rings to your hardware or home center store to
get matching O-rings for replacement. Clean any scale that appears on the spout base,
faucet body, and the inside of the swinging spout. Install the new O-rings and reverse the
steps above to reassemble the faucet.

2.7 CARTRIDGE FAUCETS

 Cartridge faucets have only one moving part. The stem slides up and down to open and
close the faucet and rotates to regulate the flow of hot and cold water. Any leaking requires
replacement of the cartridge.

 First, turn off the water. To remove the cartridge, you'll need to remove the handle. This
project can be like working a puzzle. If you have the manufacturer's instruction sheet for
the faucet, you're ahead of the game. Without it, look for a retainer clip at the rear of the
faucet just below the handle. Or, you may have to remove a set screw or snap-in "hot-cold"
button and a handle pin or screw. On some faucets the swing spout must come off first.
The retainer clip may be hiding beneath the handle inside a lift-out tube. Some cartridge
faucets use two retainer clips–one by the handle and another by the cartridge. Retainer
clips can be pried out with a screwdriver.
 Once the retainer clip is removed, the cartridge simply pulls out. Use pliers, as shown in
Fig. 6. Install the new cartridge by pushing it into place with the flat arrow, or other mark
upward. If you use a lubricant on the cartridge, make sure it's silicone grease.

3.0 UNSTOPPING CLOGGED SINK DRAINS

 If the drain is sluggish but not completely clogged, turn on the hot water tap for 5 to 10
minutes. This sometimes opens the drain.

 If running hot water does not open the sluggish drain, try an environmentally safe chemical
drain opener. Such cleaners are available in several forms, and they are made primarily
from caustic soda with bauxite and other ingredients. Read the label on the drain cleaner
and follow manufacturer's instructions.
 After using any chemical cleaner, flush it from the drain pipes by allowing hot water to run
for at least 10 minutes.

3.1 OPENING COMPLETELY CLOGGED DRAINS

 In some cases, using a simple suction cup will open a clogged sink drain.

 First, remove the basket strainer from the drain (Fig. 1).

FIG. 1 - Remove the sink's strainer basket before using a plunger.

 Run hot water until it stands about 2" deep in the sink.

 Take a suction cup plunger and pump it up and down directly over the clogged drain. The
water in the sink provides a seal. If the suction cup does not clear the drain in a few
minutes, you will probably be forced to remove some of the pipes to get the job done.
 If you cannot open the drain with the suction cup, set a pail underneath the sink trap and
remove the cleanout plug and washer (Fig. 2). If the drain is only slightly clogged, a few
quick probes with a screwdriver may solve the problem.
FIG. 2 - Put a pail under the trap and remove the cleanout plug.

 If the screwdriver doesn't open it, use a snake or drain auger through the pipe. A drain
auger works best if you rotate it, feed it in a short distance, and then rotate it again. This
enables the drain auger to be inserted deeply into the pipe.

 After the drain pipe is opened, replace the cleanout plug and washer. Run scalding water
through the pipe to carry away any accumulations.

3.2 UNSTOPPING CLOGGED LAVATORY DRAINS

 If the lavatory drain is only slightly clogged, try opening it by removing the drain stopper
and probing for hair and other debris with a short piece of wire.

 If this doesn't work, try a plunger. Since your lavatory drain has an overflow outlet, you'll
need to plug it with tape or rags before using a plunger (Fig. 3). After plugging the overflow
drain, use the plunger exactly as you would in opening an ordinary sink.

FIG. 3 - Plug any overflow pipes before using a plunger.

 If the wire and plunger treatments do not work, use a sink auger or plumber's snake. You
may be able to do this without removing the sink trap (Fig. 4).
FIG. 4 - A clogged drain can sometimes be opened with a snake without removing the trap.

 If none of these efforts works, set a pail under the lavatory and remove the trap (Fig. 5).
Cover the chrome nut with tape or a rag to prevent marring by the wrench.

FIG. 5 - Cover the chrome nuts with tape to prevent marring.

 Loosen the thumbscrew on the plumber's snake and move the handle back about 3' (Fig.
6). Insert the snake into the drainpipe, rotate the auger, feed it in, then rotate again. This
allows you to drive the snake deeply into the drainpipe.
FIG. 6 - Loosen the thumb screw and move the handle about 3' from the end of the snake.

3.3 UNSTOPPING BATHTUB DRAINS

 To unstop bathtub drains, try the running hot water, the plunger, or the chemical method.
Remember to plug the overflow outlet before using a plunger.

 If the chemical, the plunger, or the hot water treatments do not open the clogged drain,
you'll need to remove the trap located under the tub. If the tub is on the first floor with
crawl space or basement access to the pipes, this can be relatively easy.
 In older homes this trap will be a drum trap (Fig. 7) which has a removable top. This top
often becomes corroded and may be very difficult to remove. Apply penetrating oil to the
top and let it set for a few minutes. Then use a large wrench to remove the top. If that
fails, a hameer and punch may be necessary to do the job.

FIG. 7 - The drum trap is usually mounted under the tub.

 Tubs in newer homes usually have a tubular trap. The bottom portion of this trap can be
removed by loosing the two large nuts that hold it in place. Prior to loosing these nuts hang
a pail under the trap to catch any water that is in the trap.

 After you have removed the trap or the cover check for debris in the trap itself and in the
pipes leading to and from the trap. In tub drains clogs of hair and soap are quite
commonplace. A pair of rubber gloves might be a good idea here.
 After you have removed the clog and resealed the drain, run hot water through the drain
for a few minutes. This will allow you to check the operation of the drain and to flush any
remaining debris from the drain.

3.4 OPENING A CLOGGED TOILET

 In most cases you can open a clogged toilet using a force ball-type plunger (A, Fig. 9). A
regular suction cup plunger will seldom do the job (B). A force ball-type plunger exerts a
great deal more pressure for cleaning toilets than the regular type.
FIG. 9 - Use a force ball type plunger to open a clogged toilet.

 Be sure to have sufficient water in the toilet bowl when using the plunger.

 If the plunger does not clear the clogged drain, use a closet auger (Fig. 10). Start the auger
or snake into the bowl and continue to crank it until it becomes tight. This cranking and
pulling action will usually bring up the object that is causing the stoppage.

FIG. 10 - Use a closet auger if the force ball plunger doesn't unstop the toilet.

 If the closet auger is not effective, use a small snake in the same way as described for
opening lavatory drains.

 If neither the plunger, the closet auger, nor the snake removes the obstruction, you may
need to remove the toilet from the floor, turn it upside down, and force the obstruction out
from the top or bottom.
 If you must remove the toilet from the floor, use either a wax preformed O-ring or fresh
plumber's putty in reseating the toilet.

3.5 OPENING CLOGGED SEWERS

 In older construction there were three basic causes for clogged sewers. These were
excessive mortar (Fig. 11) left at soil pipe joints, roots (Fig. 12) from trees and plants and
broken pipes.
FIG. 11 - Excessive mortar at soil pipe joints can cause a build-up.

FIG. 12 - Water-seeking roots often enter pipes at the joints.

 In both new and old construction, broken pipes (Fig. 13) allow foreign matter to enter the
drainage system. This can often cause clogging.

FIG. 13 - Broken soil pipes can lead to clogging.

 Clogged sewers in newer construction are often limited to broken pipes and poor design or
construction. Using the wrong fittings during construction or allowing too little slope in the
drain run can cause the drain to become clogged.

 To open a clogged sewer, set a container just underneath the cleanout plug (Fig. 14).
Loosen the plug just enough to permit water and waste to flow into the container.
FIG. 14 - Rotate the wheel clockwise as you unroll it, and push it forward.

 When all the water and waste have drained out, remove the plug and insert a cleanout
tape.

 Rotate the reel clockwise as you unroll it, and push the tape forward

4.0 How to Install a Water System Supply

4.1 Most Common Mistakes

1. Violating or ignoring code restrictions,

2. Using supply pipes that are too small,
3. Moving or knocking copper pipes while the newly sweated fittings are still hot,
4. Creating fire hazards by leaving materials smoldering after sweating fittings,
5. Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two,
6. Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded pipe joints,
7. Not running pipes to correct locations, and
8. Trying to solder a pipe joint when the water has not been completely drained. (Be certain
the main valve is turned off and that the supply lines are drained at the lowest
point of the house, at the tub/shower and at the sinks. Flush all toilets.)
9. If you drain the lines at the outside hose valve, this is best. Just be sure this valve is fed
from the house main rather than from the well or city water main.)
10. When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush
your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink
faucets and other plumbing trim.

4.2 Joining Copper Pipe

You will need to purchase your copper fittings in accordance with the joining method you will be
using. Soldering is the method used to join hard copper pipes together. For this you will require a
small butane or propane torch, 00 steel wool or emery cloth, a wire pipe brush, a can of soldering
flux and some solid core wire solder. Check you local code * for the wire solder required in your
area. Some require 50/50 which is 50% tin and 50% lead which is stronger than 60/40 for a better
joint connection. Others use lead free.

4.3 Measuring and Cutting Copper Pipe

To determine the length of copper pipe, you will need to measure the distance between the fittings
and add the distance the pipe will extend into each fitting. Keep in mind that pipe insert distances
will vary for various types of joints. Although usually 1/2" pipe will insert 1/2" and a 3/4" pipe
inserts 3/4". Copper pipe can be cut with a pipe cutter that has a blade designed for cutting copper.
Use the cutter by placing the pipe into the opening and twist the knob until the cutting wheel just
pierces the copper pipe. Then rotate the cutter around the pipe, tightening the knob after each
revolution, until the pipe snaps in two. After you have cut the pipe, use the special blade on the
tubing cutter to ream out the "burr" on the inside of the newly cut pipe.
Tip: Whether using hard or soft copper tubing, take care not to
damage it as you work. Cover the jaws of wrenches or vices with
electrician's tape.

4.4 Soldering

. Drain the pipes completely for any water in the pipes will interfere
with a successful soldering job. Turn off the main water supply
valve and open a faucet at the low end of the pipes. Usually an
outside hose bibb works best.

Hint. Once the water has drained out, stuff some plain white bread
into the pipe near the fitting you are about to solder to absorb any
remaining moisture. Once you turn the water on again, the bread
will disintegrate.

2. Use the steel wool, emery cloth or very fire sandpaper to polish the last inch of the outside of the
pipe and the inside of the fitting down to the shoulder.  Wire pipe brushes that clean both the
outside of the pipe and the inside of the fittings, are also available in both 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes. It
is important that you clean both fitting and pipe thoroughly. Time spent on this step will save time
later fixing leaking joints. It is much easier to do it right the first time.

3. Apply flux around the polished inside of the fitting and around the polished outside of the pip
end. (Some solders are available that contain the flux within the solder.)

4. Place the fitting on the pipe, twisting back and forth a couple of times to assure even distribution
of the flux.

5. Heat the bottom of the pipe first with the propane torch. Slowly pass the torch back and forth
across the fitting to distribute the heat evenly. Take care not to get the fitting too hot because the
flux will burn away to nothing. You can tell the joint is hot enough when the soldering wire will melt
easily on contact with it and not stick. By touching the soldering wire to the joint occasionally as you
heat it, you can avoid overheating. The moment the wire melts, the joint is ready.

6. Remove the torch and touch the soldering wire to the edge of the fitting. The solder should pull in
between the fitting and the pipe by capillary action. Continue to solder until a line of molten solder
shows all the way around the fitting. Be certain there are no air gaps between the solder and the
pipe fitting.

7. Wipe off the excess surface solder with a damp rag before it solidifies, leaving a trace of solder
showing in the crevice between fitting and pipe.

Caution: Keep your hands well away from the hot joint and take care not to bump or move the
newly soldered joint until it has cooled.

4.5 Air Chambers or Cushions

Often pipes will bang when a faucet or valve is suddenly cut off. This can damage the pipe and is
irritating to live with. The banging is caused because water does not compress when its flow is
suddenly stopped. To prevent this, we recommend installing manufactured air chambers, or shock
absorbers, into the hot and cold supply lines at each fixture. These contain inert gas and bellows
that absorb the shock. These manufactured products work better than using a one foot length of
copper pipe as these must be drained every few years. These fittings may need to be replaced or
have parts within them replaced on a regular schedule.

5.0 Repairing toilets

The modern toilet has been around awhile, but its workings remain a mystery to many people.
When a toilet malfunctions, there's usually more to fixing it than jiggling the handle. But as master
plumber Ed Del Grande explains, repairing or replacing one is by no means too difficult for the
average homeowner.

5.1 How It Works

The driving force that makes a toilet work is gravity. Water enters the toilet through a supply line
equipped with a shutoff valve, or "closet stop," at the base of the toilet (figure A). After the water
travels up the supply line through the base of the tank, it's diverted in two directions by an inlet-
valve assembly sometimes called a ballcock. Most of the water goes into the tank, but some goes
directly into the bowl via a fill tube that runs down through an overflow tube (figure B). As a result,
as the tank fills up, so does the bowl.

Figure A

Figure B

How does the toilet know when to stop filling? As water fills the tank, a float ball (figure C) rises
until it reaches a certain point, where it begins putting pressure on the ballcock (figure D), which
shuts off the flow of water.

Figure C
Figure D

When you flush the toilet, the handle trips a lever that raises a lift rod or chain, which in turn raises
a flapper that covers an opening at the bottom of the tank (figure E), called the flush-valve seat.
When the flapper is raised, gravity pulls water from the tank into the hollow body of the bowl, then
into the bowl itself through small passages just under the rim. The cyclone effect caused by water's
rushing into the bowl is what carries waste down through the drain at the bottom of the bowl.
Almost immediately after it opens, the flapper drops back into its seat, and the tank begins filling
again.

Figure E

Depending on the brand or style of the toilet, the parts inside the tank may vary, but they perform
the same basic operations. For instance, the float device in older models is often made of copper,
whereas newer ones are plastic. The mechanism lifting the flapper may be a rod or a chain.
Flappers also come in different types. Older ballcock assemblies are sometimes made of brass;
newer ones are plastic. Finally, some toilets don't use a float ball but instead have a float cup that
slides up and down a tube as the water level rises and falls (figure F). This setup combines the
float and ballcock into one unit. It achieves the same result as the float and lever but is a bit more
precise.

Figure F

Tip: The water in the toilet tank is clean because the tank is physically separated from the bowl.
Some people put bleach in the tank in an attempt to remove rust stains or other discoloration from
the porcelain sides. This practice should be avoided, as bleach and other chemicals can damage or
shrink rubber seals and cause malfunctions.

5.2 Common Problems

Problem 1: Water Flowing Into the Bowl

One aggravating toilet malfunction occurs when water constantly runs into the bowl. This indicates a
continuous leak from the tank into the bowl, and it can occur at two places: at the overflow tube or
the flapper.

Flappers come in a variety of types, but they all work about the same--like a tub stopper when it's
pulled. This allows water to flow from the tank and into the bowl.

Take a look inside the tank. If the water level rises above the overflow tube, the problem may be
with either the float or the inlet valve on the ballcock. Remember that the float rises with the level
of the water and tells the inlet valve when to shut off the flow. If this mechanism doesn't work
properly, the water keeps rising until it spills through the overflow tube and into the bowl (figure
G). To check the inlet valve, flush the toilet and, as the water rises, gently lift the rod that holds the
float (figure H) until you hear the water stop. If the water stops, the inlet valve is OK, and the
problem is caused by the float.

Figure G

Figure H

A screw at the top of the ballcock (figure I) allows you to adjust the level of the float. With this
adjustment, you should be able to reduce the level to which the water rises in the tank. If the
adjustment fails to stop water from running into the overflow tube, the problem may be with the
float itself. For instance, if the float has a hole in it and lies too low in the water, it never rises
enough to trip the inlet valve. Check to see whether the float needs replacing. A new rod and float
are easy to replace and cost only a few dollars.
Figure I

If you test the inlet valve as described above and the water doesn't stop, the problem is with the
ballcock itself. Though it's possible to repair a broken ballcock, it's usually best to replace the whole
assembly:

1. After turning off the water at the shutoff valve, flush the toilet, and hold down the handle to
remove most of the water from the tank. Remove the excess water at the bottom of the
tank with a sponge.
2. Remove the supply line that connects to the bottom of the ballcock at the base of the tank
(figure J). Use slip-joint pliers to remove the nut securing the ballcock to the tank.

Figure J

3. Pushing up from the bottom, lift out the assembly (figure K).

Figure K

4. Drop the new ballcock assembly into place. Thread on a new nut from underneath the tank,
and tighten with slip-joint pliers. (Don't overtighten the nut, or you could crack the tank.)
Reattach the supply line.
5. Inside the tank, clip the new refill tube in place (figure L). Turn the water on at the
shutoff.
Figure L

If you've checked the water level in the tank and it's not rising above the overflow tube but you still
hear or see water leak into the bowl, the second possible source of the leak is around the flapper.
Testing for this is simple: turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve, then wait to see whether
the level in the tank drops. If it drops noticeably after about 15 minutes, the problem could be a
flapper chain that's too tight, preventing the flapper from dropping all the way into the seat, or a
leak in the flapper. Replacing a flapper is easy. The first step is to drain the tank.
1. Turn off the water at the shutoff valve, flush the toilet, and hold down the handle. There
may be a little water left in the bottom of the tank, but don't worry about it.
2. Wipe the flapper seat with a clean cloth to make sure it's free of debris, and check it for
cracks or splits (figure M).

Figure M

3. Check the flapper to make sure it's not torn and that it fits tightly against the seat. If the
flapper is damaged or worn, pull it loose and replace it. Just pop a matching flapper onto
the hinges at the base of the overflow tube (figure N).

Figure N

Problem 2: Water Trickling Into the Bowl, or "Phantom Flushes"

You may periodically hear your toilet begin to spontaneously refill, as though someone had flushed
it. A toilet that cuts on and off by itself, or runs intermittently, has a problem that plumbers call a
phantom flush. The cause is a very slow leak from the tank into the bowl. This problem is almost
certainly caused by a bad flapper or flapper seat. The solution is the same as the three steps
described above--to drain the tank and bowl, check and clean the flapper seat and replace the
flapper if it's worn or damaged.

Problem 3: Water Trickling Into the Tank

If you hear a sustained hissing sound coming from your toilet, it's probably a result of water
trickling into the tank via the supply line. In this case the parts to check are the float, the refill tube
and the ballcock or inlet-valve assembly. The hissing sound is typically caused by water coming
through the inlet valve. First check to see whether the float is sticking or needs adjusting. Next,
check to make sure the refill tube isn't inserted too far into the overflow tube. (It should extend
only about 1/4" below the rim of the overflow tube.) If neither of these adjustments solves the
problem, you'll probably need to replace the ballcock assembly as described above.

Problem 4: The Bowl Empties Slowly

A bowl that empties slowly--also known as a weak flush--is usually the result of clogged holes
underneath the rim of the bowl. Use a curved piece of wire to poke gently into each flush hole to
clear out any debris. Coat-hanger wire works fine, and a small mirror will help you see under the
rim (figure O). You can also use wire to loosen debris that may be blocking the siphon jet in the
bottom of the drain. Be careful not to scratch the bowl.

Figure O

Problem 5: The Dreaded Clog

Clogs are the most common toilet problems. Several tools can help you clear a clogged drain. A
force-cup plunger (figure P) is more effective than the familiar standard type for clearing minor
clogs. Insert the bulb into the drain, and pump forcefully. Slowly release the handle, letting a little
water in so you can see whether the drain is clear. Repeat if necessary. It's a good idea to wear
safety goggles to protect your eyes from splashes.

Figure P

For serious clogs, use a closet auger. Insert the end of the auger into the drain hole, and twist the
handle as you push the rotor downward (figure Q). Use caution not to scratch the bowl.

Figure Q
Problem 6: Leaky Seals

A standard toilet has at least five seals with the potential for leaking. In each case, the solution is to
identify the faulty seal and tighten or replace it. The largest seal is the one between the tank and
bowl. A break here will cause a major leak, with water shooting out from underneath the tank at
every flush. Replacing this seal involves draining and removing the tank. Turn the tank upside down
for better access. Remove the old seal (figure R) and pop on a new one. The smaller seals at the
mounting bolts and the base of the ballcock (figure S) may also fail and cause smaller leaks.
Replace these in the same way. Tightening the bolts or mounting nut occasionally is enough to stop
the leak.

Figure R

Figure S

The final seal is the wax seal mounted on a plastic flange underneath the toilet base (figure T). If
this seal fails, water leaking underneath the toilet base will eventually rot the floor. Caulking around
the base of the toilet without repairing the leak will only trap the water, making matters worse. To
repair a leak around the base of the toilet, you'll need to remove the toilet and replace the wax seal.
If the leak is caused by a broken flange, get the help of a professional plumber.

Figure T

5.3 Replacing a Toilet

If your toilet is worn or damaged--or you'd just like to replace it--you can do the job yourself.
Installing a toilet is a moderately difficult project that can usually be accomplished in about one
afternoon. It's best if you have an assistant to help you lift the old tank and bowl and the
replacement pieces. If your replacement toilet is a newer model with the bowl and tank connected,
lifting it will almost certainly require two people.

Materials:
Toilet
Wax seal
Force-cup plunger
Slip-joint pliers
Adjustable wrench
Hacksaw
Putty knife
Rubber gloves
Rag

1. After turning off the water at the shutoff, flush the toilet to remove most of the water from
the tank and bowl. A little water will be left in the bowl. Use a force-cup plunger to force it
down the drain line. Remove the remaining water from the tank with a sponge and a
bucket.
2. Disconnect the supply line from the base of the tank.
3. To remove the old toilet, pop off the trim caps at the base of the toilet. Next, loosen and
remove the nuts and washers on the closet bolts securing the bowl to the floor. If the nuts
are rusted, you may need to cut them off with a hacksaw. Note: If you're working alone,
disconnect the tank from the bowl before disconnecting and removing the bowl. Lifting the
two pieces separately will be a lot easier.
4. Now that you've removed the nut and washer on each side of the bowl, gently rock the
toilet back and forth until you can lift it free (figure U). Once you've removed the toilet,
there will be an open line to the sewer system. Stuff a rag into the hole to prevent sewer
gases from backing up into your home and to prevent tools from falling into the hole.

Figure U

5. Use a putty knife to pry up and remove the old wax seal (figure V). Inspect the flange
beneath the seal to make sure it's not cracked. Once you've inspected the flange, remove
the rag from the hole. If the flange is damaged, get help from a plumber. If the flange is
okay, remove the rag from the hole and take the closet bolts out of the flange. Install the
new wax seal, and hook the new closet bolts into their slots on the flange (figure W).

Figure V
Figure W

Important: Remove the rag before installing the new wax seal. Leaving it in is a common and
costly mistake.

6. With the closet bolts and seal in place, you can attach the tank and bowl to assemble the
new toilet. Slide the tank bolts through the opening in the bottom of the tank. Line up the
shank of the bolts with the holes in the bowl, and drop the tank into place (figure X).

Figure X

7. Secure the tank to the bowl by tightening a nut onto each tank bolt. Evenly tighten all the
nuts until the tank rests firmly on the bowl.
8. Set the assembled toilet onto the flange assembly, making sure that the closet bolts
protruding from the floor line up with the holes in the base (figure Y). Lightly press the
toilet in place to form a good seal with the wax ring.

Figure Y

9. Place a couple of washers and a nut on each bolt. Secure the nuts with a small wrench, but
don't overtighten them. If the bolts extend too far over the top of the washers and nuts, cut
off the excess with a hacksaw.
10. Pop the trim caps in place to cover the ends of the bolts.
11. Secure the new seat and lid to the bowl with mounting bolts.
12. Use slip-joint pliers to reconnect the supply line to the bottom of the tank.

Tip: Keeping your toilets in good repair will save you money. Even a small leak may waste as much
as 40 gallons of water per day.

6.0 Replacing Fracture

If you've been considering upgrading your faucet to one with a more modern or attractive design,
it's a relatively easy undertaking. The task can usually be completed in about an hour. Master
plumber Ed Del Grande explains the basic steps involved in replacing kitchen and bathroom faucets
and provides some tips to make the jobs easier.

6.1 Replacing a Faucet

Materials:

New faucet assembly

Basin wrench
Adjustable wrenches
Slip-joint pliers

The first step is examining your kitchen sink to determine what type of faucet it will accept. The
typical kitchen sink has four holes (figure A) to accommodate the faucet assembly -- three for the
faucet and one for the sprayer. Some faucets have extra holes for optional accessories such as soap
dispensers, filtered water, instant hot water, etc.

Figure A

Kitchen faucets are available in three basic designs: those with separate handles for hot and cold
water (figure B), those with a single handle that regulates both the flow and temperature of the
water (figure C) and those with a single handle and a sprayer built into the spout (figure D).

Figure B

Figure C
Figure D

Usually the packaging on new faucet assemblies will refer to a "three-hole installation" or a "one-
hole installation." The three-hole types have three separate stems extending from the bottom of the
assembly (figure B, above) -- one for hot water, one for cold and a center connection for the
sprayer. To install this faucet, your sink should have a separate hole for each stem and a fourth for
the sprayer itself. A variation on this type has the hot water, cold water and sprayer connections all
entering through the same hole. In this case, the second and third holes are used for mounting
bolts (figure E) that attach the assembly to the sink. The fourth hole accommodates the sprayer
attachment.

Figure F

One-hole installation is for faucets that combine the sprayer and spout. The hot and cold water and
sprayer connections all come through a single hole. Sinks may be specially ordered with only a
single hole for this faucet type, but it's also possible to install one on a typical four-hole sink. Faucet
manufacturers generally provide a decorative escutcheon plate that covers three of the holes
(figure F ). With this type, since you won't need the fourth hole for the sprayer, you may opt to
buy a cover for the extra hole or to use it for a separate accessory such as a soap dispenser.

Our project involves replacing a two-handled faucet with a single-handled type.

1. Before beginning, turn off the water at the shutoff valves under the sink (figure G). Open
the faucet to drain any excess water.

Figure G

2. Use a small adjustable wrench to disconnect the hot- and cold-water supply lines from the
shutoff valves (figure H).
Figure H

3. Using a basin wrench, reach up behind the faucet, and unscrew the coupling nuts
connecting the supply tubes to the faucet (figure I).

Figure I

4. Use the basin wrench to remove the mounting nuts holding the faucet in place (figure J).

Figure J

5. With the mounting nuts disconnected, lift out the old faucet, and use an adjustable wrench
to disconnect the sprayer hose from the assembly (figure K). Lift out the sprayer hose.
After the faucet is removed, use a scouring pad to clean the sink surface thoroughly. If the
sprayer-hose escutcheon cap is in good shape, you may want to leave it on. If not, replace
it with the one included with the new faucet.

Figure K

Tip: You're now ready to connect the new faucet's fittings with the water-supply lines. The
manufacturer's instructions may direct you to set the new faucet assembly in place, then
crawl back under the sink to make the new connections. Save yourself from struggling in
cramped quarters by making all the connections you can before setting the new assembly
in place. Then feed the connected lines down through the hole in the sink. With the
attachments at the base of the faucet assembly already in place, the only work you'll need
to do under the sink is to connect the supply lines to the shutoff valves.

6. Slip the new sprayer hose down through the sprayer hole, and feed it up through the center
faucet hole. Use an adjustable wrench to connect the hose to the sprayer nipple (figure L).

Figure L

7. The hot and cold supply tubes on the faucet may vary in length, depending on the brand.
You may want to attach flexible connectors to adapt the faucet for a particular installation.
If so, attach them to the fittings on the faucet's supply tubes. Use two wrenches to tighten
each connection -- one to hold the faucet-fitting stationary and one to turn and tighten the
female fitting on the flexible connector (figure M). This two-wrench technique will help
prevent twisting and damaging the faucet's copper supply lines. (Note: Depending on the
size of the hole, you may have a tight fit and thus be able to attach only one flexible
connector before seating the faucet assembly. In that case, you may need to wait and
attach one of them from underneath the sink once the faucet's in place.)

Figure M

8. Insert and feed the connectors and supply lines into the center hole, and, making sure that
the faucet's gasket lines up correctly, seat the faucet (figure N).

Figure N

9. From under the sink, install a washer and nut--or a plastic nut-washer combo as pictured
(figure O) -- to the end bolts that will hold the faucet in place. Tighten the nuts by hand,
then tighten with a basin wrench.
Figure O

10. Attach the second flexible connector if you haven't already (figure P), and attach the male
ends of the connectors to the shutoff valves (figure Q). Tighten the connections with an
adjustable wrench. Turn the water on at the shutoff valves, and turn on the faucet to check
whether it's working properly.

Figure P

Figure Q

6.2 Replacing a Bathroom Faucet

Materials:

New faucet assembly

Basin wrench
Adjustable wrenches
Slip-joint pliers
Plumber's putty

Installing a bathroom-sink or lavatory faucet is similar to changing a kitchen faucet. The main
difference is that the assembly for a lavatory-sink faucet includes a pop-up assembly that allows the
user to open and close the drain.

Standard bathroom faucets come in two types: 4" center spread and 8" center spread. The 4" type
fits the most common style of bathroom sink -- one with outer holes whose centers are 4" apart
(figure R). The 8" variety consists of three separate components (figure S) and fits a sink with
outer holes 8" apart. If you're using the 4" type, you have the option of installing a one-handle or
two-handle design. Many people find the single-handle type more convenient and easy to operate.
Figure R

Figure S

For our project we'll replace an older two-handle faucet with a single-handle one.

1. Turn off the water at the shutoff valves underneath the sink.
2. Loosen the collar nuts on the curved section of the drain pipe called the P-trap. Place a
bucket underneath to catch any excess water, then remove the P-trap (figure T).

Figure T

3. Use slip-joint pliers to loosen the nut holding the pop-up assembly in place under the sink.
4. From overhead, unscrew the pop-up flange to free the assembly underneath the sink
(figure U).
5. With the pop-up assembly out of the way, use a wrench to loosen and remove the fittings
that join the old faucet's supply lines to the shutoff valves.
6. Using a basin wrench, reach behind the sink bowl and loosen and remove the supply tubes
and the mounting nuts holding the faucet in place. Lift the old faucet off the sink. Use a rag
or an abrasive pad to clean any residue left from underneath the old faucet.
7. You may want to use flexible connectors to replace the rigid tubes connecting the faucet to
the shutoff valves. If so, connect them to the new faucet. Don't over-tighten.
8. Drop the new faucet in place, feeding the supply lines through the holes in the sink and
making sure that the faucet's gasket seats properly.
9. Secure the faucet from underneath the sink with mounting nuts.
10. Connect the bottoms of the flexible connectors to the hot- and cold-water shutoffs. Tighten
all connections.
11. With the faucet in place, begin installing the pop-up assembly. Push the pop-up rod down
through the faucet body, and attach the flat bar (figure V).
Figure V

12. Add a little plumber's putty to the bottom of the new flange, and hold the tailpiece so that
the whole assembly protrudes up through the drain hole in the sink. Spin the ring to
position it with the tailpiece underneath the sink.
13. Working underneath the sink, tighten the nut on top of the tailpiece to secure the pop-up
housing in place.
14. Hook the pop-up lever onto the flat bar and secure it to the pop-up housing ( figure W).

Figure W

15. From overhead, drop the stopper into the drain hole. Work the pop-up rod to make sure the
stopper works properly.
16. Replace the P-trap and tighten the collar nuts.
17. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks.

6.3 Key Points

Although changing a faucet involves a fair number of steps, performing the task successfully comes
down to a good understanding of the following:

 Knowing how to disconnect the hot- and cold-water supply lines at the shutoff valves
 Mastering the use of a basin wrench to reach behind the sink and remove and replace the
nuts holding the faucet in place
 Working smart by making some of the connections before seating the assembly to minimize
working in cramped quarters
 Using high-quality flexible supply lines to connect the new faucet
 For a lavatory sink, knowing how to disassemble the P-trap and install a new pop-up
assembly.