Process of Cutting and Sections involved in Cutting

Room

Submitted by
Syed Muhammed Umar (MFM/23/16)
Javith (MFM/23/454)

Submitted to

Department of Fashion Management Studies (FMS)

National Institute of Fashion Technology (N.I.F.T)

SH 49A, Vikram Sarabhai Instronics Estate,
Tharamani, Chennai - 600113
Ph. 044 2254 2756, Fax: 91-44 2254 2769
Web: www.nift.ac.in
March 2024
Process of Cutting and Sections involved in Cutting
Room

Submitted by
Syed Muhammed Umar & Javith

Under the Supervision of

Dr. Samuel Wellesly
Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Technology

Submitted to

Department of Fashion Management Studies (FMS)

National Institute of Fashion Technology (N.I.F.T)

SH 49A, Vikram Sarabhai Instronics Estate,
Tharamani, Chennai - 600113
Ph. 044 2254 2756, Fax: 91-44 2254 2769
Web: www.nift.ac.in
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Sl. No. Particulars Page No.

1. INTRODUCTION 1

2. OVERVIEW 3

2.1 Pattern Making / Marker Making 3

2.2 Cut Ratio Receiving 3

2.3 Fabric Receiving 3

2.4 Fabric Relaxation 4

2.5 Spreading 4

2.6 Marker Making 4

2.7 Cutting 4

2.8 Numbering 4

2.9 Sorting 5

2.10 Bundling 5

3. FUNCTIONS 5

3.1 Take Fabric from The Fabric Store 5

3.2 Relaxation of Fabrics 5

3.3 Cut Order Planning 6

3.4 Fabric Spreading/Layering 6

3.5 Planning Markers 6

3.6 Making Markers 6

3.7 Cutting Fabrics 6

3.8 Sorting, Bundling and Numbering Of Garment Plies (Parts) 6

3.9 Inspecting Cut Components 6

3.10 Sorting Printed and Embroidery Panels 7

3.11 Re-Cutting Panels 7

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3.12 Fusing Garment Components 7

4. MACHINES 8

4.1 Manual Cutting 8

4.2 Semi-Automatic Cutting Machines 8

4.3 Automatic Cutting Machines 9

5. CHECK POINTS 10

6. CONCLUSION 12

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CUTTING PROCESS IN THE GARMENT MANUFACTURING

CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

Fabrics are cut into garment patterns using one of the cutting aids for making garments from
fabrics. In the ready-made garment manufacturing, garment manufacturer mostly does cut-to-
pack processes. The cutting process come next to the fabric sourcing and prior to the stitching
garments. In the global apparel sourcing supply chain, garment manufacturers are called as
export houses and garment suppliers. Here we will see the process flow of the cutting
department.

Cutting process sequence is shown by arrows.

Receiving cut and Receiving fabrics Receiving patterns

maker plan based Preparing cut ratio from fabric store from the CAD
on workorder (ware house) department

Verify fabric
Prepare marker
Prepare record of Spreading of approval status for
length on the
lay details fabric quality and shade
cutting table
band

Moving cut blocks

Marker making to sorting and Ply numbering Bundling
bundling area

Keeping ready for Attaching bundle

issuing to stitching ticket with each
floor bundle

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The cutting processes may vary depending on the product, business type and fabric and
equipment. Nowadays most of the above cutting process are automated. Like maker making,
fabric spreading, and cutting. For increasing the cutting room productivity and reducing the
manpower, garment companies are going for automation in the cutting room. Through CAD
system and auto marker making, factories can save fabrics.

Depending on the fabric design and garment styling requirement, one of the many processed
are followed for cutting. Like, if we are making garments (top or bottom) using striped fabric
and you need to match stripes on the garment side seam and sleeve joining – you can’t cut the
fabric spreading flat in long marker. During layering process, you need to match the stripes.
Most cases, garment factories, for matching stripe make single marker for these types of design.

Pin table or laser beams are used for matching stripes at the time of fabric layering. Further the
fabric layering is done following one of the any methods for maintaining fabric face side, nap
direction, knitted wales direction, printed pattern direction. For the cutting the fabric layers,
factory uses one of many equipment depending on the layer height, accuracy needed,
component size, availability of the cutting equipment and machine. Other than the bulk cutting
process, they also need to cut fabric using the maker for fabric consumption estimation.

Optional process cutting department need to do

1. Fusing garment parts: Checking of panels when printing and embroidery is done on
panel stage. They need to match printed panel with other garment components before
sending bundle to the stitching department.
2. Fabric re-cutting for replacement of garment components
3. Rib cutting and piping cutting
4. Measuring and cutting tapes (if needed in the garment)
5. Counting trims, matching sizes of labels and issue to sewing department with the
cutting bundles (This process is followed by some companies. But most cases, trims
and accessary issued by the trim store and measuring and cutting tapes and done in
stitching floor)

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CHAPTER 2

OVERVIEW

Garment production starts with the cutting process. In this process, the fabric is being cut into
components (shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar shapes
etc.). In mass production, multiple layers of fabrics are laid on a table and many garments are
being cut at a time. The laid fabric stack is called as lay. The cutting process includes a number
of sub-processes and the flow of the processes is as follows. Each process is briefly explained
in this article.

2.1 Pattern Making / Marker Making:

According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment parts are made on the pattern
paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual marker, these pattern pieces are used for marker
making. On the other hand, in the CAD system patterns are made in the computer. Later using
a plotter marker are made on the sheet. In the second case the cutting department receive ready
marker.

2.2 Cut Ratio Receiving:

Prior to cutting, cutting department get a job sheet from planning department or merchandiser
or production manager that includes total quantity of garment pieces to be cut, sizes ratio of
the garments and color wise size break up. According to the size and color ratio, cutting team
prepares one marker or multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are
planned in this stage.

2.3 Fabric Receiving:

fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption of the fabric
from the marker. In case of multiple color order, color wise requirement is made. Fabric
department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is
used).

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2.4 Fabric Relaxation:

This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During rolling of fabric, it gets
stretched. Therefore, it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would
shrink after making. To relax the fabric, roll or thān is opened and spread and kept for about
24 hours.

2.5 Spreading (Fabric Layering):

In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above another maintaining pre-defined maker length
and correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem.
Spreading is done by manual layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During
layering of the fabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.

2.6 Marker Making:

After layering of a lay, pre-made paper patterns (or ready markers made by plotter) are placed
on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker making, marking is done around each pattern
shape using marking chalk. This process is called as marker making. In a marker all garment
components are placed.

2.7 Cutting:

Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done using straight knife
or other cutting means. In cutting process, garment components are separated. Based on pattern
shape different cutting method/machine are selected.

2.8 Numbering:

Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching, all components from
the same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment.
Between the cutting and sewing processes cut components may be passed through other
processes like printing and embroidery. There is maximum chance of mixing of the
components. If there is layer number in each component, then at the time of stitching only
correct components will be stitched together.

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2.9 Sorting:

According to the production system (make through, progressive bundle or one-piece flow
system) cut components are sorted. In sorting all component of a garment placed together. Size-
wise sorting and in case multiple colors are cut in a single lay, color wise sorting will be
required.

2.10 Bundling:

As per the production line requirement, a certain number of pieces with all component are tied
together. This process is known as bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style
name, size number and quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage, cutting are ready to send
to a production line for stitching.

CHAPTER 3

FUNCTIONS OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT IN GARMENT INDUSTRY

The cutting department is responsible for cutting fabrics and feeding the sewing department
with cuttings. The cutting department’s capacity is planned based on the daily feeding
requirement of the sewing lines. The cutting department is set up with a cutting department
head, cutters, spreaders, quality checkers and helpers for sorting, ply numbering and bundling.
The activities of the cutting department are explained in this post.

3.1 Take Fabric from The Fabric Store:

The cutting department gets a cut order from the production manager. According to the cutting
plan, the cutting in-charge generates a fabric requirement sheet or requisition slip to the fabric
store to issue fabrics. Cutting department

3.2 Relaxation of Fabrics:

Knitted fabrics require relaxation before cutting. After receiving the fabric from the fabric
store, the cutting department opens the fabric from the fabric roll and lays it on the table for
relaxation for some hours before cutting. Factories also relax fabric in the fabric store overnight
after opening the fabric rolls.

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3.3 Cut Order Planning:

The cutting master plans the number of markers they need to prepare, the size combination to
be set for each marker and the number of plies to be laid in each marker.

3.4 Fabric Spreading/Layering:

In mass production, multiple layers of fabric are cut at the same time. So spreaders lay the
fabric on a cutting table as per total marker length. The layer height is kept up to a certain inch.

3.5 Planning Markers:

The cutting master plans marker ways, marker lengths and the numbers of plies to be laid in
each lay.

3.6 Making Markers:

This is a process of making an outline of garment patterns on the lay for cutting garment
components. After layering, the marker paper is laid on the top of the layer. Those factories
that don’t have CAD markers make markers manually using paper patterns.

3.7 Cutting Fabrics:

After making the marker, garment patterns are cut and taken out from the layer. Various
technologies are used for cutting fabric layers, such as straight knife cutting, band knife
machine cutting and a computer-controlled automatic cutting machine.

3.8 Sorting, Bundling and Numbering Of Garment Plies (Parts):

After cutting the fabric, layers are sorted size-wise and color-wise. Each ply is numbered using
stickers. Bundles are kept on inventory tables, before these are sent to undergo the next process.

3.9 Inspecting Cut Components:

To maintain the cutting quality, standard cutting components are checked randomly by quality
checkers. If defective components are found, they replace those defective parts.

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3.10 Sorting Printed and Embroidery Panels:

As per order requirements, printing and embroidery is done on cut panels. Size-wise sorting is
done after receiving printed and embroidered panels. The checking of printed and embroidered
panels is also done by the cutting department

3.11 Re-Cutting Panels:

Re-cutting is done for garment components that require to be replaced in bundles. Recutting
requests are received from the sewing department for defective garment parts. Re-cutting is
also done for block panels cut for the printing and embroidery processes. After receiving
garment panels from the printer or embroiderer, these panels are reshaped.

3.12 Fusing Garment Components:

Fusing in garment components is done to stiffen parts of a garment. If needed, fusing is done
at the cutting section (e.g. fusing of the collar and cuff components of formal shirts).

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CHAPTER 4

DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC CUTTING MACHINES USED IN GARMENT

PRODUCTION

Cutting is one of the processes in garment manufacturing. In bulk garment manufacturing,

multiple fabric layers are cut at a time by means of cutting machines. Different types of cutting
machines and equipment are available for cutting fabrics and machines are used as per
requirement and production volume. Semi-automatic and automatic improves cutting room
productivity and improves cutting accuracy. Cutting machine and equipment can be
categorized as following

1. Manual cutting
2. Semi-automatic cutting machine
3. Fully automatic cutting machine

4.1 Manual Cutting

Hand scissors are used for cutting fabric plies manually. Hand scissors are not machines but
very useful cutting equipment. Factories may have semi-automatic and fully automatic
machines for fabric cutting but can’t avoid use of hand scissors in cutting section. Scissors are
common tool in cutting process and hand scissors has many use in cutting room.

4.2 Semi-Automatic Cutting Machines

Straight Knife cutting machine: The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in
conventional cutting rooms because it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more
accurate on curves than a round knife and relatively reliable and easy to maintain. Even if a
band knife is used for the main cutting operation, a straight knife would be used to separate the
lay into sections for easier handling.

Band Knife cutting machine: Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy
is required than can be obtained with a straight knife. Pieces to be cut are first cut on a block,
and then cut exactly on a band knife.

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Round knife cutting machine: A round knife is used only for straight lines or lower no of lays
of relatively few plies.

Die cutting machine: This machine is useful where small motifs with particular shape and
pattern and accuracy in cutting are needed.

4.3 Automatic Cutting Machines

There are different types of automatic fabric cutting machines. Here majorly used cutting
machines in the garment industry are shown.

Computerized cutting machine: Computerized cutting machines are used where high volume
of garments is manufactured. This machine cuts fabric layers as per command given in
computer system. Automatic cutting machine is also known as CNC machine. In the automatic
cutting room, fabrics are spread on the table by auto spreader and the lay is positioned in the
cutting table prior to automatic cutting.

Rib cutting machine: Narrow fabric tape of rib is cut from knits fabric. Ribs are used in t-shirts
neck finishing or piping operations and many other knits apparel manufacturing.

Laser cutting machine: Instead on blade fabric layer is cut by laser rays. Laser cutting machine
is also computer-controlled machine.

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CHAPTER 5

7 CHECK POINTS FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT FOR STARTING BULK

CUTTING

The garment manufacturing process from sourcing of fabric to fabric testing, fabric quality
inspection and audit to cutting of fabric are performed by different teams. All changes and
update requirement must be communicated to the right person on time. If there is gap in
communication between two departments, there might be chance of making mistakes and
consequences might be resulted in a big loss of revenue. To avoid delay in production, and
quality issues you must look at following 7 check lists prior to starting bulk cutting. You can
say these are requirement for starting of cutting process.

5.1 Bulk Fabric Approval

Approval of fabric quality in terms of fabric weight (GSM), its shade, shade band, lot variations
(if any) and there are many other fabric quality parameters. All parameters must be matched
with the buyer's requirement. You don't need to know everything about fabric parameters - you
just need the written approval of the fabric you are going to cut for the specific order. Also
ensure that you have taken correct fabric from the fabric store.

5.2 Approval of Bulk Pattern

Fitting and correction of the pattern. In export order garment patterns are modified and
corrected at various stages and sometimes multiple correction and modification is done on
patterns prior to bulk cutting. Though you take care of receiving the right pattern for bulk
cutting, there might be chances of getting wrong patterns from pattern making department
(when there is many versions of pattern for a same style). So you must check whether the
pattern is signed one for the bulk cutting. In case there is lot-wise shrinkage variation in fabrics,
you must have multiple patterns marked with shrinkage allowance.

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5.3 Fabric Relaxation

If required fabric relaxation must be done prior to layering of fabrics. Fabric comes in rolls
from the mills. In the fabric roll, normally fabric got stretched and if the fabric is cut without
relaxing it, shrinkage may happen on garment components after cutting. The best way is to
relax fabric before laying fabric on the cutting table to avoid fitting and measurement issue. If
possible, you can relax fabric after layering on the cutting table. What method to follow and
how many hours fabric need to be relaxed? Take expert's advice for these.

5.4 Fabric Shrinkage Report And Shrinkage Approval

Don’t ignore fabric shrinkage report and approval on the shrinkage report. Having approval on
fabrics confirms the fabric shrinkage too. But in many cases lot wise different shrinkages are
found. You need to check the shrinkage report of different lots and plan your cutting rolls
accordingly (assumed that fabric store will segregate fabric based on shrinkage percentage).
Read how to calculate fabric shrinkage.

5.5 Cut Planning

You might have detailed size and color wise quantity breakup for an order. Do you know what
is best way of lay fabrics and cut all quantity by layering least number of lays? Plan it in
advance looking at size ratio and color combination in the order sheet. Related: Why you need
cut planning and roll planning?

5.6 Marker Plan

Marker plan plays a big role in fabric consumption and fabric utilization. You can reduce
wastage by following a better marker without compromising average consumption of fabric.
Always follow approved marker in bulk cutting. In case your factory has CAD system, you can
take marker approval on mini marker.

5.7 Fabric Consumption

Fabric cost incurred about 65% of the total garment cost. FOB of the garment is prepared based
on fabric consumption. In case actual fabric consumption in bulk cutting comes higher than the
estimated consumption (that one is used in costing), you might not save enough money from

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that order. Therefore, it is better to cross-check the actual fabric consumption in final marker.
If there is not much difference you can proceed for bulk cutting otherwise wait and take
approval from the concern authority. Add all these check points into cutting room standard
operating procedure. Following these you can improve cutting room performance and cutting
quality.

CHAPTER 6

CONCLUSION

Solution can be simplified by following standard procedure of cutting activities. If you have
not yet developed standard operating procedure (SOP) for cutting room activities, develop it
and ensure that everyone in cutting department follow the standard working procedures. To
make it further error proof, set standard procedure for fabric department and sampling and
pattern making department also.

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