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ACC 229 Instruction

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
29 views

ACC 229 Instruction

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© © All Rights Reserved
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ACC-229 LV Multi Pochette Accessoires making tutorial

Here is the tutorial of how to make LV Multi Pochette Accessoires, there are some tiny
difference between the pattern in picture and pattern in pdf, because we had optimized
the pattern after test making.
I use laser cut pattern for test making, pdf pattern you download is more detailed.

The finished measurement is about: 15" x 11.4" x 3.5" (38cm x 29cm x 9cm).

Hardware:
You can get the hardware kit here:
https://www.leathercraftpattern.com/LV-Multi-Pochette-Accessoires-hardware-kit

Material:
1.0mm leather about 4 sq.ft
0.8mm leather about 4 sq.ft
0.7mm leather about 4 sq.ft
0.4mm TYLAN spunlace about 0.5 sq.ft
0.8mm vulcanized fiber about 0.5 sq.ft
0.8mm regenerated leather a little
1.2mm EVA a little
Please understand: there are so many kinds of leather in the market for choose. If the
leather you use is thinner than advised data, you can add stiffener’s thickness.

Skill tips:
There are some skill tips that I was asked frequently, let’s introduce them to you at first.

Tip 1: Why use spunlace?


For vegetable tanned leather, we use tragacanth gum to deal with the flesh side, but for
chrome tanned leather, full glue spunlace on flesh side is a better way, that will strength
the leather effectively, and normally the spunlace is smaller than leather edge about 1cm,
when you thin the 1cm and sew the bag, there will be very nice looking bump effect.

Tip 2: Where is the regenerated leather to be used?


Regenerated leather is used between surface and lining leather, if you use soft and thin
leather to make a bag, a piece of strong regenerated leather will support it a nice look. It is
also used on bottom frequently, to make the bottom strong enough. Of course,
regenerated leather is smaller than edge too, normally 1cm.

Tip 3: Can I use leather to replace spunlace and regenerated leather?


Yes, if you want the stiffener more than 2mm thick, leather is the best choice. If you want a
0.3mm stiffener, anyhow, spunlace or regenerate leather is the best choice, because it is
so hard to thin leather into 0.3mm
Tip 4: What’s bending glue skill? Must I use bending glue tool to do this work?
Please read this instruction:
https://www.leathercraftpattern.com/leather-bag-sewing-how-to-sew-leather-bag-bag-pattern-l
eathercraft-leather-tool/how-to-sew-leather-leather-sewing-skill-instruction/how-to-do-bending-
glue-tutorial
Bending glue tool will make you complete the work efficiently, but for a skilled leather worker,
bending glue by hand is OK.

Tip 5: Is an electronic creaser machine is needed?


If you want your leather work looks better, you need it, I like FN2 tip very much, I use it to draw
decoration lines almost everywhere.
Tutorial

Step 1: Prepare material of A01.

Step 2: Cut exact size, mark stitching holes.


Step 3: Thin edge as slope, about 8mm wide.
Step 4: Full paint glue on grain side.

Step 5: Fold edge on top, fold both surface leather and lining leather. Here add a piece of tape on
fold edge place, that will strengthen the edge a lot.
Step 6: Take out hardware kit.
Step 7: Make zipper 180mm No.5, we had did a lot on how to make zipper, so here we jump the
step.

Step 8: Cut off the marked part.


Step 9: Glue zipper on a piece of surface.
Step 10: Cover a piece of lining on.

Step 11: Sew top stitching holes (Here is a wrong step, please don’t sew now, so I took off the
thread after sewingL)
Step 12: Find a piece of 0.8mm leather glue with 0.8mm regenerated leather.

Step 13: Fold and glue, then use A16 to cut exact size, punch stitching holes. Iron decoration lines
by FN2 tip.
Step 14: Put A16 on by align with its orienting line, and then sew.
Step 15: Make the other side (back side) as same steps above.

Step 16: Make accessory pouch gusset, simply glue surface and lining together. Because I use very
soft leather, so I don’t do bending glue work, if you use harder leather, bending glue.
Step 17: 2mm cord in A05.
Step 18: Install lobster buckles.
Step 19: Glue A05 beinder along front side. Align the small triangle notch together.
Step 20: Glue along edge, cut some notches on corners. Notice the large triangle (90 degree) that
I made on end tip, the triangle should align with the cutting open that we cut on surface & lining.

Step 21: Fold the 90 degree triangle. Paint glue on binder and gusset.
Step 22: Glue gusset with front side, and punch stitching holes.

Step 23: Sew and cut off redundant binder.


Step 24: Same steps to glue the other piece of A05 binder on back side.
Step 25: Glue and sew gusset with back side.

Step 26: Converse the grain side outside. The accessory pouch is done.
Step 27: Make A17, find a piece of leather and a piece of TYLAN.

Step 28: Paint glue on leather and TYLAN.


Step 29: Fold and glue.
Step 30: Cut exact size.

Step 31: Punch stitching holes and iron decoration line by FN2 tip.
Step 32: Now we make main pouch, almost the same steps to make accessory pouch. Take out 2
pieces of surface leather and 2 pieces of lining leather.
Step 33: Prepare the material of gusset.

Step 34: Glue a piece of leather with TYLAN, and cut exact size of A18, iron decoration lines.
Step 35: Punch stitching holes for A18 on A09.

Step 36: Prepare 2 pieces of A07 and 2mm cord.


Step 37: Prepare zipper for main pouch, 230mm, No.5.

Step 38: Sew A18 on A09.


Step 39: Glue a piece of TYLAN on sewing area.
Step 40: Glue A10 with A09. Add a piece of strengthen tape on fold edge area.

Step 41: Fold edge.


Step 42: Cut exact size and sew top stitching line. In pattern, the lining leather is designed as
exact size.
Step 43: Fold edge of A04.
Step 44: Sew A09 on A04 (sew left stitching holes) by align with its orienting line.

Step 45: Fold edge of A02 and A03, still add strengthen tape.
Step 46: Glue zipper on as steps above.
Step 47: Sew zipper, Again, forgot sew A17 on, my old brain.
Step 48: Make A08, nothing more to say.
Step 49: Glue 2 pieces of 2mm cord into 2 pieces of A07.
Step 50: Same steps above to make the main pouch, just look at the pictures.
Take off thread and sew A17 on.
Step 51: Just simply attach accessory pouch with main pouch.
Step 52: Let us make the coin case. It is a little hard to glue zipper on a round case, so here let’s
spent some time to make a zipper install mould.
Use B01 to cut a paper board, and cut 6 pieces A12 size vulcanized fiber circles, here I use 0.8mm
vulcanized fiber.

Step 53: Glue them together.


Step 54: Cut A11 and A12 surface leather.
Step 55: Cut 2 pieces of A13, 2 pieces of stiffener for A11 and A12, cut left and right gussets. Cut
hinge surface.

Step 56: Iron decoration lines


Step 57: Sew each left and right gusset together, only sew top stitching line, supply leather coat.

Step 58: Take out our zipper install mould.


Step 59: Glue B01 in middle of the mould by double side tape, glue both sides. You can use a
hollow A11 as template to find the middle point.
Step 60: Glue a piece of A16 with B02 on mould, please notice that, A16 MUST be thinned edge
about 0.1mm.

Step 61: Now glue zipper on by double side tape. The total length is 265mm, and teeth length is
225mm.
Step 62: You can see the downside stop and upside stop reach to edge of A16. Then glue the
other piece of A16 on to cover the cloth tip of the zipper, and overlap the first piece of A16.

Step 63: Now glue A11 and A12’s stiffener on. Paint leather coat on edge, and paint some
towards middle about 3mm.
Step 64: Glue A11 and A12 on mould.
Step 65: Take out mould.

Step 66: Punch chisel holes here and sew.


Step 67: Mark gusset anchor point.

Step 68: When sew here, stop.


Step 69: Glue gusset on and go on sewing.
Step 70: Sew the other side by same steps.

Step 71: Let’s make shoulder strap. I have green and pink webbing with LV logos J
Step 72: Cut 2 pieces of A19, 2 pieces of A20, and a piece of A21.

Step 73: Glue A20 on A19.


Step 74: The A20 is very important, it can compensate the height of folded webbing tip.
Step 75: Look at the picture to know how to install A21.
Step 76: Hang coin case on.
Step 77: Do same steps on the other side. Done.

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