Handmade By Jodie

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Octopus Mama & baby

Thank you for purchasing my pattern. This pattern is for personal use only. Please
do not redistribute, sell or copy this pattern or parts of this pattern in any way. You
may sell the finished product from this pattern but please give credit to me as the
designer.

I try to keep my prices for my patterns as low as possible to enable everybody the
chance at making one of my unique designs. Just because my prices are low doesn’t
mean the pattern should be low quality. I put my heart into everything I make. I have
tried to make my patterns as simple as possible so if you have any problems or think
of a way I could improve, please get in touch. I love to hear your feedback, good or
bad, and I especially like to see the outcome of my patterns.

This pattern is written using UK terminology. There is a difference between UK

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Stitches which may be used;

Ch – Chain
Mr – Magic Ring
St - Stitch
Dc – Double crochet
Inc – increase (two dc in one st)
Dec – decrease (dc two stitches together)
Tc – Treble Crochet
Htc – Half Treble Crochet
3tcc – 3treble crochet cluster –only half finish each treble and then finish all three
together.
BLO – Back loop only
Sl st – Slip stitch
FO – Finish Off

For this pattern I have used;

Main colour – 1 x 100g ball of James C Brett Flutterby

We will be working in continuous rounds throughout this pattern.

Use pins to position each piece correctly before sewing them together.

When made using the same yarn and hook size as mentioned above, your Mama
Octopus should measure 19 inches from the top of the head to the tip of one tentacle
and 27 inches from the tip of one tentacle to another. You baby octo will measure 12
inches from the top of the had to the tip of one tentacle and approximately 19 inches
from the tip of one tentacle to the another.

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Mama Octopus

Head and top side of tentacles - with main colour, leave a tail on the inside of your
work, you will need this later.

1. 6dc in mr (6)
2. 1inc in each st (12)
3. (1dc, 1inc) x 6 (18)
4. (2dc, 1inc) x 6 (24)
5. (3dc, 1inc) x 6 (30)
6. (4dc, 1inc) x 6 (36)
7. (5dc, 1inc) x 6 (42)
8. (6dc, 1inc) x 6 (48)
9. (7dc, 1inc) x 6 (54)
10. – 14. 1dc in each st around for 5 rounds (54)
15. (7dc, 1dec) x 6 (48)
16. 1dc in each st (48)
17. (1dc, 1dec) x 6, 10dc, 1inc, (1dc, 1inc) x 5, 9dc (48)
18. (6dc, 1dec) x 6 (42)
19. 1dc in each st around (42)
20. (1dc, 1dec) x 6, 7dc, 1inc, (1dc, 1inc) x 5, 6dc (42)
21. (5dc, 1dec) x 6 (36)
22. 1dc in each st around (36)
23. (1dc, 1dec) x 4, 24dc (32)
We will now begin the tentacles, there should be 4dc in between
each one.
24. 2dc, *(ch21, start in 2nd ch from the hook, 20dc, join back to the main
part of the octopus by doing a dc in the next available stitch and do a
further dc in each of the next 3 stitches (4dc all together)* repeat this
process another 7 times, 2dc.
25. We will now crochet along each tentacle and extend them. (1dec,
20dc, ch25, start in the 2nd ch from the hook, 44dc, 1dec) do this for
each tentacle.

Finish off and hide the yarn tail by weaving in and out of stitches to secure the yarn.
If you are using safety eyes attach them now. They should be placed between
rounds 20 and 21 with a space of 8 stitches between.

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Underside of the Octopus

Using the colour you have chosen for the underside, leave a tail on the inside of
your work, you will need this later.

1. 6dc in mr (6)
2. 1inc in each st (12)
3. (1dc, 1inc) x 6 (18)
4. (2dc, 1inc) x 6 (24)
5. (3dc, 1inc) x 6 (30)
6. – 10. 1dc in each st around for 5 rounds (30)
11. (1dc, 1dec) x 3, 8dc, (1dc, 1inc) x 3, 7dc (30)
12. (3dc, 1dec) x 6 (24)
13. 1dc in each st (24)
14. (1dc, 1dec) x 3, 5dc, (1dc, 1inc) x 3, 4dc (24)
15. 1dc in each st (24)
16. (2dc, 1inc) x 8 (32)
17. nd
2dc, *ch21, start in 2 ch from hook, (3tcc, 3dc) x 5, join to main with a
dc and then do a further 3dc (4dc in between each tentacle)* repeat * to * a
further 7 times, 2dc.
18. *1dec, 20dc, ch25, start in 2nd ch from hook (3tcc, 3dc) x 5, 3tcc, 23dc,
1dec* repeat a further 7 times.

FO. You will need to turn your work inside out. The “wrong” side of the stitches
should now be facing outwards. The starting tail will now be at the top of your work.

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Eyes x 2

Using your main colour

1. 6dc in mr (6)
2. 1inc in each st (12)
3. (1dc, 1inc) x 6 (18)
4. (2dc, 1inc) x 6 (24)
5. 1dc in each st (24)
6. (2dc, 1dec) x 6 (18)
7. (1dc, 1dec) x 6 (12)
8. (1dec) x 6 (6)

FO. Press the middle flat and attach the safety eye in the centre.

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Baby Octo

Head and top side of tentacles

1. 6dc in mr (6)
2. 1inc in each st (12)
3. (1dc, 1inc) x 6 (18)
4. (2dc, 1inc) x 6 (24)
5. – 8. 1dc in each st around for 4 rounds (24)
9. (1dc, 1dec) x 4, 2dc, (1dc, 1inc) x 4, 2dc (24)
10. (2dc, 1dec) x 6 (18)
11. (1dc, 1dec) x 3, 2dc, (1dc, 1inc) x 3, 1dc (18)
12. 2dc, 2dec, 12dc (16)
13. nd
*1dc, ch30, start in the 2 ch from the hook, 1dc in the next 29 ch, 1dc*
repeat from * to * a further 7 times.

FO.

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Underside

1. 6dc in mr (6)
2. 1inc in each st (12)
3. (2dc, 1inc) x 4 (16)
4. nd
*1dc, ch6, start in the 2 ch from the hook, 1slst, 2dc, 1htc, 1tc, 1dc
into the main* repeat from * to * a further 7 times.
FO.

Putting the octopus together

Mama Octopus - Remember the tail I told you to leave at the beginning of Mama
octopus topside and underside? Well, now we need those!

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The starting tail of the topside should be hanging inside the head. The starting tail of
the underside should be on the top of the underside (see pics).

Flip the topside of the octo inside out for now. Tie the starting tails together with a
gap of approximately 4cm. You can flip the topside back the right way now. The
underside should be inside the topside. You will notice there is a distinct front and
back of the head and also of the underside. Ensure these are lined up correctly, so
that the bulge sits towards the back.

Stuffing the head - To make it easier, stuff the hole where the baby will be sitting with
stuffing or an old rag. This will make sure you do not overstuff the head. If you
overstuff the head you will make it difficult to put the baby inside the mama. Add a
small amount of stuffing at a time, making sure to stuff around the ends that are tied
together.

Use pins to pin the top and bottom together. The stitches should line up perfectly.
Attach your main colour yarn in between any of the tentacles. You will be crocheting
from the top (make sure the topside is facing towards you). Crochet through both
layers from the top through to the bottom using the main colour yarn. When
crocheting the end of the tentacles, do 2 or 3dc into the end to turn and crochet
down the other side.
You can stuff the tentacles very lightly if preferred, this will need to be done as you
work your way up each tentacle.

Eyes - sew them to the head between rounds 18 and 24 with approximately 3
stitches between them.

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Baby Octo

Eyes - You will need to insert the eyes before sewing the octo closed. If you are
using safety eyes, insert them between rows 9 and 10 with a space of approximately
3 stitches.

Sewing baby Octo together – Stuff the baby octo head firmly, you will add more
stuffing as you start to close.
Pin the underside to the topside, the 2 stitches between each tentacle on the
underside will match to the 2 stitches between each tentacle on the topside. You can
sew the two parts together but I feel it looks better if you crochet them together.

You will crochet the two parts together in the same way as you did with the Mama
octo. The only difference is for the tentacles. On the baby Octo, the tentacles are
only 5 stitches long. When you get to the end of one tentacle, rather than cutting the
yarn and rejoining, just move straight on to the other side of the tentacle without
cutting. I have tried to show this as best I can in pictures below.
You will do 5dc up one side of the tentacle then turn to do 5dc down the other side of
the tentacle, then 2dc in between each tentacle. Do this until you have done all 8
tentacles.
Sew in all ends and hide the yarn tails.

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I hope you have enjoyed following this pattern.

If you have any problems, questions or opinions on this pattern please get in touch.

Thank you very much!

Jodie
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