CROCHET PATTERN

ANKYLOSAURUS BRUNO
STORY
Meet the adorable ankylosaurus
Bruno.
He's a real little tank, with spikes on
his back and a massive tail. Bruno
turns out to be as serious as a
samurai, ready to fight even huge
predators. But at the same time he
is very cute and resembles a turtle.
Bruno likes to go to the cinemas,
because watching movies in good
company is the best recreation.
And the first thing you feel when
you come to the cinema is the
enticing smell of popcorn...
Let's crochet this chubby fellow!

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YOU WILL NEED
ANKYLOSAURUS

Yarn Color Brand Weight

A «Yarnart Jeans» 160 m/50 gr Sport (12 wpi)

«Alize Cotton Gold Batik» 330

В Sport (12 wpi)
m/100 gr

«Alize Cotton Gold Tweed» 330

C Sport (12 wpi)
m/100 gr
Materials and tools
 Hook 1,75 mm (for crocheting  Synthepus for filling;
dinosaur), hook 1,5 mm (for  Scissors;
crocheting cheeks, spikes and  Yarn needle (thick needle with
plates); blunt end);
 10 mm safety eyes;  Needle;
 Black, white and pink threads  Round-nosepliers;
mouline;  Cotter pin T-shaped 25 х 2.0 mm;
 2 pins or 2 markers;  Shim 3х20 mm;
 Needles for cutting - with a bead on  Disk, diameter 20 mm;
the end (for fixing parts before  Steel wire, diameter 1,6 mm;
sewing);  Electrical tape.

BONUS – POPCORN BUCKET

 White, red and yellow yarn (I used  White felt;

Yarn C, «Alize Cotton Gold Hobby»  Black threads;
color 56, «Gazzal Jeans» color 1125);  Super Glue "Moment";
 White cardboard; Coin.

ON A NOTE
My finished toy was 7 cm (2.8 inches) high and 12 cm (4.7 inches) in length without a
tail. I used a cotter pin, thanks to which the head can turn in different directions. If
you don’t want to use it, you can sew the head simply to the body.
The wire in this toy is optional and should be used with caution as it is not safe for
babies and young children. The wire makes the tail movable, but is not necessary.
For convenience, mark the first single crochet with pin or marker at the beginning of
each round. Check the number of loops after each crocheted round (it is indicated in
round brackets).
You can choose a completely different yarn than suggested here. In this case, you
need to choose the size of the hook yourself.
Try to crochet so that the stuffing material is not visible in the toy. If you can’t
crochet more tightly, take a smaller hook.

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CONVENTIONS
l – loop = chain; {sc3tog} – sc next 3 stitches together
sc – single crochet; (single crochet decrease);
sl st – slip stitch; (…l) – total number of loops in a round;
inc – increase; […]xN – repeat what is indicated in
dec – decrease; round brackets N times.

ANKYLOSAURUS
HEAD
Yarn A 1: 11 loops, turning, 10sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (10l)
2: 1 loop, turning, inc, 8sc, inc (12l)
3: 1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)
4: 1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)
5: 1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)
6-7: 1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)
8: 1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)
9: 1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)
10-11: 1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)
12: 1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)
13: 1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)
14-15: 1 loop, turning 14sc (14l)
16: 1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)
17: 1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)
18: 1 loop, turning, dec, 8sc, dec (10l)
19: 1 loop, turning, [dec]х2, 2sc, [dec]х2 (6l)
20: 1 loop, turning, 6sc (6l)
21: 1 loop, turning, 6sc only through front loops (6l)
22: 1 loop, turning, dec, 2sc, dec (4l)
Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the
next row crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A),
and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Crochet the head around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the
point "Start" (see photo 1).

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23: 22sc up; 10sc straight; 22sc down; 4sc straight (58l) (see photos 1-3).

Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only!
24: 4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (54l)
25-27: 54sc (54l)
28: [7sc, dec]х6 (48l)
29: [6sc, dec]х6 (42l)
30: [5sc, dec]х6 (36l)
31: [sc, dec]х12 (24l)
MUZZLE (Yarn C)
1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back
of the chain) (8l)
2: [sc, inc]х4 (12l)
3: 12sc, sl st in the 1st sc (12l)
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 4). Sew the muzzle
to the head as shown on photo 5.
Insert safety eyes between the rounds 26 and 27, the distance between them is
approximately 12 stitches, don’t fix yet (see photo 6).

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Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye «loose stitch» of black thread
floss (see photos 7, 8). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle «loose stitch» in
the middle of the eye (see photos 9, 10). In the same way, embroider one more «loose
stitch» 1 mm higher than the previous one, in order to get an oval shape (see photos
11-14).
Using yarn needle to do from below the eye «loose stitch» of white thread floss (see
photos 15, 16). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle «loose stitch» (see photo
17). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.
Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos
18-24).

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Cut 2 pieces of the black threads floss about 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) long. Attach to the
forehead and arrange symmetrically, mark with the pins the beginning and end of
the segment. Embroider eyebrows (see photo 25-28).
CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouline)
Crochet cheeks with a hook 1,5 mm.
1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head
with the wrong side outward (see photos 29, 30).

Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting.

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32: [dec]х12 (12l)
Completely fill the head. Insert cotter pin into shim (see photo 31). Place cotter pin
between 31 and 32 round of the head as shown on photos 32, 33.
33: [dec]х6 (6l)
Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten
and secure.

SPIKES (Yarn C)
Crochet spikes with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!
SMALL, 2 pcs
1: 2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)
2: 4sc (4l)
3: [inc]х4 (8l)
4: [3sc, inc]х2 (10l)
5: 10sc (10l)
6: [4sc, inc]х2 (12l)
7-8: 12sc (12l)
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with
synthepus and sew it to the head.
BIG, 2 pcs
1: 2 loops, 3sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (3l)
2: sc, inc, sc (4l)
3: [sc, inc]х2 (6l)
4: [inc]х6 (12l)
5: [2sc, inc]х4 (16l)
6: 16sc (16l)
7: [7sc, inc]х2 (18l)
8-9: 18sc (18l)
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with
synthepus and sew it to the head (see photos 34-36).

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TAIL (Yarn А)
Tail club is crocheted in two identical details. Crochet the first detail as follows below:
1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)
2: [sc, inc]х3 (9l)
3: 9sc (9l)
Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail according to the same scheme, do
not cut the thread.
To connect the details insert the hook initially into the first detail (from the inside to
the outside), and then into the second detail (from the outside to the inside) (see
photos 37, 38).
6 (incomplete round): crochet 3sc of the first detail together with 3sc of the second
detail, then crochet 6sc along the second detail (see photo 39)
7: crochet 6sc on the first part, crochet 6sc on the second part (12l) (see photo 40-42)

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6: [4sc, dec]х2 (10l)
Slightly stuff the tail with synthepus
7: [3sc, dec]х2 (8l)
8: [2sc, dec]х2 (6l)
9-10: 6sc (6l)
11: sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (8l)
12: 8sc (8l)
13: 2sc, [inc]x2, 4sc (10l)
14: 10sc (10l)
15: 3sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (12l)
16: 5sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (14l)
17: 7sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (16l)
18: 8sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (18l)
Cut a piece of decorative wire approximately 12 cm (4.7 inches). Twist one end of the
wire into a loop, and twist the other end into the ring (of diameter equal to the tail
opening) with the help of round nose pliers (see photo 43-45). Wrap the place of
twisting with electrical tape (see photo 46). Insert crochet tail to the wire.
Crochet and fix the wire on three points to the tail – every 6th sc, crocheting the next
round (see photos 47-50). If you decide not to use wire, then stuff the tail with
synthepus.
19: 18sc (18l)
Cut and fix the thread. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connect to the back -
move the pin to the 12th loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 51).

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BODY
BACK (Yarn А)
1: 14 loops, turning, 13sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (13l)
2: 1 loop, turning, 13sc (13l)
3: 1 loop, turning, inc, 11sc, inc (15l)
4: 1 loop, turning, 15sc only through front loops (15l)
5: 1 loop, turning, inc, 13sc, inc (17l)
6: 1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)
7: 1 loop, turning, inc, 15sc, inc (19l)
8: 1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)
9-11: 1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)
12: 1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)
13: 1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

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14: 1 loop, turning, dec, 15sc, dec (17l)
15: 1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)
16: 1 loop, turning, 17sc only through front loops (17l)
17: 1 loop, turning, dec, 13sc, dec (15l)
18: 1 loop, turning, dec, 11sc, dec (13l)
19: 1 loop, turning, dec, 9sc, dec (11l)
20: 1 loop, turning, dec, 7sc, dec only through front loops (9l)
21: 1 loop, turning, dec, 5sc, dec (7l)
22: 1 loop, turning, dec, 3sc, dec (5l)
Connect the back with the tail in the next round.
To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the
outside), and then into the back (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 52-55).
23: 1 loop, turning, crochet 5sc of the back together with 5sc of the tail (see photo 56)
Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the
next row (the same way as for the head) crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the
sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).
Crochet the body around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the
point "Start" (see photo 57).
24: crochet 22sc, 13sc, 22sc on the back; crochet 13sc on the tail (70l) (see photos 58,
59)
Sew the holes between the tail and the back using extra thread (see photo 60).

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Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only!
25-27: 70sc (70l)
28: [5sc, dec]х10 (60l)
29: [8sc, dec]х6 (54l)
NECK (Yarn C)
1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (4l)
2: 1 loop, turning, inc, 2sc, inc (6l)
3: 1 loop, turning, inc, 4sc, inc (8l)

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4: 1 loop, turning, inc, 6sc, inc (10l)
5-9: 10sc (10l)
Crochet the neck around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the
point "Start" (see photo 61).
10: 8sc down; 4sc straight; 8sc up, 10sc straight (30l)
Mark with a pin the place where the neck connect to the body - move the pin for 1
loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 62). Cut and fix the thread.
Continue crochet the body, change the thread to yarn C.
Connect the body with the neck in the next round.
To connect the details insert the hook initially into the neck (from the inside to the
outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 63-67).
30: crochet 9sc, dec, 7sc along the body; crochet 10sc of the body together with 10sc
of the neck; then crochet 2sc, dec, [9sc, dec]x2 along the body (see photo 68) (60l)
31-33: 60sc (60l) (see photo 69)
Insert cotter pin between 6 and 7 row of the neck (in the middle, see photos 70, 71).
Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the "rings" with the help of round-
nosed pliers (see photos 72-75).

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34: [3sc, dec]х12 (48l)
35: [2sc, dec.]х12 (36l)
Start stuffing the body with synthepus.
36: [sc, dec.]х12 (24l)
37: [2sc, dec.]х6 (18l)
38: [sc, dec.]х6 (12l)
Completely fill the body.

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Attention! The neck should be stuffed very tightly so that the dinosaur holds its
head well.
Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt it should be a little larger than the resulting hole.
Insert it into the hole in order to synthepus does not cling to the hook during closing
the detail (see photo 76).
39: [dec]х6 (6l)
Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten
and secure.
Sew the holes between the neck and the body using extra thread (see photos 77, 78).

PLATES (Yarn C)
Crochet plates with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!
SMALL, 8 pcs
1: 2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)
2: [sc, inc]х2 (6l)
3: 6sc (6l)
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.
MIDDLE, 10 pcs
1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)
2: [2sc, inc]х2 (8l)
3: 8sc (8l)
4: [3sc, inc]х2 (10l)
Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.
BIG, 4 pcs
1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)
2: [sc, inc]х3 (9l)
3: [2sc, inc]х3 (12l)
4-5: 12sc (12l)
Slightly stuff the plates with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for
sewing (see photo 79).
Sew the plates to the back, placing them on the lines of the remaining back loops in
a checkerboard pattern as shown on photos 80, 81.

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LEGS (Yarn B)
FRONT, 2 pcs 1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc
(from the back of the chain) (8l)
2: 3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)
3: only through back loops 12sc (12l)
4-5: [inc]х2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l)
*{sc3tog} – sc next 3 stitches together (single crochet decrease, see photo 82-84).

6: [dec]х2, 3sc, [inc]х2, 3sc (12l)

7: 12sc (12l)
Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.
8: [dec]х2, 3sc, [inc]х2, 3sc (12l)
9-14: 12sc (12l)
15: [sc, dec]х4 (8l)
Completely fill the leg.

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16: [2sc, dec]х2 (6l)
Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten
and secure.
BACK, 2 pcs 1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc
(from the back of the chain) (8l)
2: 3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)
3: only through back loops 12sc (12l)
4-5: [inc]х2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l)
*{sc3tog} – sc next 3 stitches together (single crochet decrease, see photo 82-84).
6: [dec]х2, 3sc, [inc]х2, 3sc (12l)
7: 12sc (12l)
Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.
8: [dec]х2, 3sc, [inc]х2, 3sc (12l)
9-12: 12sc (12l)
13: [sc, dec]х4 (8l)
Completely fill the leg.
14: [2sc, dec]х2 (6l)
Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten
and secure.
THOES, 3 pcs on each leg (Yarn C, in two folds)
Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot (see photos 85-90).

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Assemblage
Sew your crocheted legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed
pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this, it is necessary:
1. Attach the legs using needles for cutting (front legs between 29 and 30 rounds of
body, distance between legs approx 24 stitches, back legs between 25 and 26 rounds
of body, distance between legs approx 16 stitches - view from above, see photos 91-
93). Check that the dinosaur stand steadily. Detach the arms and legs without
removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place
(see photo 94, 95).
2. Insert the needle through the back into the front leg attachment point (leaving
the loose end of the thread outside) (see photo 96, 97).
3. Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the leg (the needle
for cutting must be in the middle) (see photo 98).
4. Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the
point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 99).

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5. Pass the needle through the second leg in the same way (see photo 100).
6. Sew the body and the legs two more times in the same way for strength (see
photo 101).
7. Insert the needle at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of
attachment of the opposite back leg (see photo 102).
8. Thread the needle through the leg (see photo 103).
9. Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the
point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 104).
10. Pass the needle through the second leg (see photo 105).
11. Sew the body and the legs two more times in the same way for strength (see
photo 106).
12. Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it the
back in the place, where it was introduced at the very beginning (see photo 107).
13. Tie a few knots and hide the thread (see photo 108).

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Congratulations, you did a great job and created a small miracle! Embrace your
ankylosaurus (see photos 109-111)!

BONUS
POPCORN BUCKET
BUCKET (Yarn С)
1: 2 loops, 10sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (10l)
2: [inc]х10 (20l)
3: [4sc, inc]х4 (24l)
4: 24sc only through back loops (24l)
5: [5sc, inc]х4 (28l)
6: [6sc, inc]х4 (32l)
7: [7sc, inc]х4 (36l)
8: 36sc (36l)
9: [8sc, inc]х4 (40l)
10: 40sc (40l)
11: [9sc, inc]х4 (44l)
12: 44sc (44l)
13: [10sc, inc]х4 (48l)
14: 48sc only through back loops (48l)
Cut and fix the thread.

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Embroider the red stripes using red yarn in 2 folds. Since the bottom of the bucket
has twice as more loops than the top, then you need to insert the needle into each
loop from the bottom, and through one from the top (see photos 112-116).
Embroider the white stripes between the red ones using Yarn C in 2 folds (see
photos 117-120).

Cut out a circle from white cardboard with a diameter equal to the height of the
bucket + the bottom, make cuts from 2 sides (see photo 121). Using the back of the
needle and a coin, push through the bottom line (see photo 122). Fold the cardboard
and place it inside the bucket (see photos 123, 124).
TOP (Yarn С)
1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)
2: [inc]х6 (12l)
3: [inc]х12 (24l)
4: [inc]х24 (48l)
5-7: 48sc (48l)

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Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the top to the bucket
(see photos 125-127). In the process of sewing, slightly stuff the bucket with
synthepus (see photos 128, 129).

Put together a strand of yarn C and a strand of yellow yarn and embroider popcorn
with French knots on the surface of the bucket (see photos 130-132). See the video
tutorial about French knots in the "LEGS (toes)" section.
Circle the coin with a pencil on white felt. Embroider inside the circle the word "POP
CORN" with black thread. Cut out the circle and glue it to the bucket with superglue
(see photos 133-135).

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