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In Process Inspection

This document outlines quality control checks at various stages of apparel manufacturing including pattern grading, spreading, cutting, sewing, assembly, fusing, and pressing. It describes factors to check like fabric nature, lay alignment, and machine settings. Potential defects are listed for each stage such as uneven spreading, mismatched plaids, frayed edges, skipped stitches, seam puckering, and scorching. In-process inspections help identify quality issues early to reduce costs, reworks, and rejections.

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Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan
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© © All Rights Reserved
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155 views

In Process Inspection

This document outlines quality control checks at various stages of apparel manufacturing including pattern grading, spreading, cutting, sewing, assembly, fusing, and pressing. It describes factors to check like fabric nature, lay alignment, and machine settings. Potential defects are listed for each stage such as uneven spreading, mismatched plaids, frayed edges, skipped stitches, seam puckering, and scorching. In-process inspections help identify quality issues early to reduce costs, reworks, and rejections.

Uploaded by

Gopalakrishnan Palaniappan
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Apparel Quality Assurance

Unit IV - In Process Inspection


• What ? - Inspection Products in between
sequence of manufacturing process
• Where ? - From spreading to packing
• Why? – to identify quality problems then &
there
• Benefits ? – Reduced cost & Save time
Reduce rework cost by 60% & Rejections from
3% to 1%.
Pattern & Pattern Grading
• Check Shape & Measurements of Patterns – as
per requirements
• Grading - Not Conforming to Specifications
• Distorted Grading: Unbalanced patterns -
which would cause twisted seams, puckering,
pleating
Marker
• To check - all the parts of garments pattern for
all the sizes are in marker.
• To check Labelling or coding of pattern
• To check Pattern direction
• Pattern grain line
• Marker width as per Fabric width
• Notches & drill marks
• Knife clearance freedom-
• Checks and stripes
Spreading (Fabric Laying)
Factors which must be checked
• Fabric Nature
• Lay length
• Lay Height
• Lay Direction
• Lay alignment – Length & width (Selvedge alignment)
• Ply tension/slackness
• Splicing length
• Static electricity
• Stripes / checks matching
• Bowing , Grain-line, Shade variation
Spreading Defects
1. Uneven Spreading:- Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in
front or back edge of marker not catching all ply.
2·. Narrow Material:- Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover
marker width.
3. Missed Sectional Breaks:- Sectional marker breaks too long or
too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.
4. Improper Tension:- Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing
parts not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
5. Mismatching Plaids:- Material spread too loose or too tight
causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.
6. Misdirected Napping:- Air pockets not removed. Napped
material reversed in spreading.
7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down,
face up or face to face as required.
Cutting
• Quality of blades / Knives
Defects
• Frayed edges – Dull blades / Knives
• Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges – Burr Blade
• Single edge fusion
• Ply to ply fusion
• Pattern precision
• Notches & drillers
Cutting Defects
• Marker or Perforator:- Not stapled or stencilled on lay . Too tight
or too loose, distorting dimensions of garment.
• Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently to show
distinct lines, notches and punch marks.
• Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or
marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.
• Drill Marks:- Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or
wrong side drill used.
• Opening Slits:- Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle.
Not cut through entire bundle or omitted.
• Improper Cutting:- Not following marker lines, resulting in
distorted parts. Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be
of different sizes.
• Notches:- Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
7. Oil Spots:- Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
8. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on
bundles.
9. Knife or Scissor Cut:-Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece.
Sorting/ Bundling inspection
• To check numbering, sorting, and bundling.
Defects.
• Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers not in order
on rack skid or box.
• Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.
Sewing
• Needles size , Thread size, Machine setting & operator skill – Important
Defects
• Holes in fabric
• Needle damage
• Skipped stitch
• Broken stitches
• Seam pucker / pleated seam
• Seam grin
• Thread breaks
• Wrong stitch density
• Uneven stitch density
• Staggered stitch
• Improperly formed stitch
• Oil stain
Seaming defects
• Uneven width
• Irregular sewing line
• In secure back stitching
• Mismatched checks / Stripes
• Mismatched seam
Assembly Defects
• Asymmetrical
• Misalignment of parts
• Shade variation
Fusing
• Time , Temp. & Pressure – Important
Fusing quality
• to check bond strength
• To check fabric feel
Pressing / Finishing
• Temp. & Time – Important
• To remove creases & set creases at required places
Defects
• Scorched/ Burned garments / fused garments
• Water spots
• Color change
• Flattened nap
• Broken button / zippers
• Creases not formed
• Wavy edges / stretched
• Not dried
• Shrinkage of garments

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