Porcelain Damask Sweater

Porcelain
ManchetDamask
mangler.Sweater has 3
beautiful borders on the body and 2 on
the sleeves. The knit and purl pattern is
charted.
Porcelain Damask Sweater is worked top
down with slanted shoulders and the
neckline is worked at last.

Sizes
(XXS/XS) XS/S (M) L (XL/2XL) 3XL

Measurements
Circumference:
(91) 102 (114) 126 (137) 149 cm
(35.75) 40 (45) 49.5 (54) 58.75 inches

Length*:
(52) 52 (52) 54 (56) 58 cm
(20.5) 20.5 (20.5) 21.25 (22) 22.75 inches

Yarn
Sandnes Garn Sunday (100% wool, 50 g =
235 m) held together with
Sandnes Garn Tynn Silk Mohair (57%
mohair, 28% silk, 15% wool, 25 g = 212
m).

Yarn quantities
Sunday 5811 or 1015:
(250) 250 (300) 300 (350) 400 g

Tynn Silk Mohair 5811 or 2511:

(125) 125 (150) 150 (175) 200 g
Suggested needles
3 and 4 mm [US3 and US6] circular needles, 40 and 80 cm [16 and 32”].
3 and 4 mm [US3 and US6] double-pointed needles.
If using magic loop, you do not need the double pointed needles.

Gauge
21 sts x approx. 28 rows stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4] on 4 mm [US6] needles.
21 sts in pattern = 10 cm [4”] on 4 mm [US6] needles.

Chart A (= 29 rows) measures approx. 9 cm [3.5”]

Chart B (= 35 rounds) measures approx. 11 cm [4.25”]
Chart C (= 30 rounds) measures approx. 9 cm [3.5”]

Note: The entire sweater is worked with two strands of yarn, 1 of each type. Wash and block your
swatch before measuring gauge.

Selecting you size

Porcelain Damask Sweater has an intended positive ease of approx. 15-25 cm [6-10”]. The one
pictured has 17 cm [6.75”] positive ease. This means the sweater has a circumference of 17 cm
[6.75”] more than the model wearing it.
At www.leknit.com the sweater is shown in off white with 22 cm [8.75”] of positive ease.

Find your personal bust circumference by measuring around your chest (or the largest part of
your upper body). Then look at the measurements at the beginning of the pattern (these are the
finished measurements of the sweater). Positive ease is the difference between your personal
measurement and the sweater's measurement. For example, if your bust circumference is 94cm
[37”], a size M will give you a positive ease of 20 cm [8”]
(114 cm – 94 cm = 20 cm).
[45”- 37” = 8”]

*Length is measured mid-back, (excluding neck edge).

Construction
The sweater is worked from the top. You start at the top of the back, then form the back of the
shoulders down to the bottom of the armholes. Then, the front section of the shoulders is
worked, and the neckline is shaped.
When the upper sections of the back and front sections are completed, they are joined in the
round and the body is finished on a circular needle in the round. Stitched are then picked up along
the armholes with double-pointed needles (or with magic loop) and the sleeves are worked top -
down. Finally, stitches are picked up around the neckline to make a folded neckband.

Abbreviations
GSR: Use German short rows to shape the neckline so it is lower in the front than the back.
German short rows are abbreviated to GSR and are worked as follows: after turning the work, slip
the first stitch with the working yarn in front. Move the working yarn to the back of the work and
tighten the slipped stitch until the two legs of the stitch are visible. Work back long the row as

© leKnit.com 2
normal. On the next row, when you reach the two legs of the turning stitch, work these as a single
stitch. For further guidance, look for German short row tutorials on YouTube.

M1R: Pick up the strand of yarn between stitches with the left needle from back to front. Knit this
stitch in the front leg of the stitch (like a normal knit stitch) = 1 st. increased.

M1L: Pick up the strand of yarn between stitches with the left needle from front to back. Knit this
stitch in the back leg of the stitch (like a twisted knit stitch) = 1 st. increased.

SSK: Slip-slip-knit: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, then slip the next stitch knitwise as well (make sure you
slip them one at a time). Pass the stitches back to the left needle and knit them together through
the back loop = 1 st decreased.

Instructional videos are available at leknit.com. Find the links at the bottom of this page:
https://leknit.com/shop/porcelain-damask-sweater-1033p.html

Top of the back section

Cast on (37) 39 (41) 41 (41) 43 sts on a 4 mm [US6] needle (= neck-sts mid back).
Row 1 (WS): Purl and cast on (5) 5 (5) 6 (7) 7 sts at the end of the row with a backwards loop cast-
on (all new sts for the shoulders are cast-on with a backwards loop cast-on).
Row 2: Knit and cast on (5) 5 (5) 6 (7) 7 sts at the end of the row = (47) 49 (51) 53 (55) 57 sts.
Row 3: Purl and cast on (5) 6 (7) 8 (9) 10 sts at the end of the row.
Row 4: Knit and cast on (5) 6 (7) 8 (9) 10 sts at the end of the row.
Work rows 3-4 a total of 5 times = (97) 109 (121) 133 (145) 157 sts, ie. (37) 39 (41) 41 (41) 43 neck-sts
and (30) 35 (40) 46 (52) 57 sts for each shoulder.

The angled shoulders are now completed. Place a stitch marker in one of the outer sts (i.e. in the
edge st, not on the needle).
Work 15 rows stockinette stitch (first and last row are worked from the WS). The outer sts on both
sides are edge-sts and are knitted on all rows.
Work chart A. Continue knitting all edge stitches on all rows. Edge-sts are not included in the
chart and are not part of the pattern.
Begin and end by the arrow. When chart A is complete, work (9) 11 (11) 13 (15) 17 rows stockinette
stitch (measured from the stitch marker, the work measures approx. (17,5) 18 (18) 19 (20) 20,5 cm
[(6.75) 7 (7) 7.5 (7.75) 8”] = armhole opening). Break the yarn and leave sts to rest while you make
the front section.

Top of front section

Left shoulder: Pick up (30) 35 (40) 46 (52) 57 sts on a 4 mm [US6] needle with the yarn tail* along
the left shoulder of the back (this will be the left shoulder when the sweater is worn.
*see video at www.leknit.com.

© leKnit.com 3
Work with the working yarn on the RS:
Row 1 (RS): Knit (5) 5 (5) 6 (7) 7. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): GSR, purl to last st, k1.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to (5) 6 (7) 8 (9) 10 sts past previous turn. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): GSR, purl to last st, k1.
Work rows 3-4 a total of 5 times = (30) 35 (40) 46 (52) 57 sts. The shoulder is now completed.

Work (2) 2 (0) 0 (0) 0 rows stockinette stitch. K first and last st of every row (edge-st).
Continue in stockinette stitch, while increasing for the neckline:
Row 5 (RS): k1, M1L, k rest of row.
Row 6: k1, purl to last st, k1.
Work row 5-6 a total of (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 times = (35) 40 (46) 52 (58) 63 sts.
Knit 1 row.
Next row (WS): k1, purl to end of row, cast-on 2 sts with backwards loop cast-on.
Next row: Knit.
Next row (WS): k1, purl to end of row, cast-on 3 sts with backwards loop cast-on.
Next row: Knit.
Break the yarn. Leave the (40) 45 (51) 57 (63) 68 sts to rest and work the right shoulder.

Right shoulder:
From the RS, pick up (30) 35 (40) 46 (52) 57 sts on a 4 mm [US6] needles along the right back
shoulder.
Row 1 (WS): k1, p (4) 4 (4) 5 (6) 6 sts. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): GSR. K to end of row.
Row 3 (WS): k1, purl to (5) 6 (7) 8 (9) 10 sts past previous turn. Turn.
Row 4 (RS): GSR. K to end of row.
Work row 3-4 a total of 5 times = (30) 35 (40) 46 (52) 57 sts. The shoulder is now completed.

Work (3) 3 (1) 1 (1) 1 rows stockinette stitch. K first and last st of every row (edge-st).
Continue in stockinette stitch, while increasing for the neckline:
Row 5 (RS): Knit to last st, M1R, k1.
Row 6: k1, purl to last st, k1.
Work row 5-6 a total of (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) 6 times = (35) 40 (46) 52 (58) 63 sts.

Next row (RS): Knit to end of row, then cast-on 2 sts with backwards loop cast-on.
Next row: Purl to last st, k1.
Next row (RS): Knit to end of row, cast-on 3 sts with backwards loop cast-on = (40) 45 (51) 57 (63)
68 sts.
Next row: Purl to last st, k1.
Next row: Knit to end of row, cast-on (17) 19 (19) 19 (19) 21 sts with backwards loop cast-on, knit
across the left shoulder sts = (97) 109 (121) 133 (145) 157 sts on the front section.

© leKnit.com 4
Front section
Work 5 rows stockinette stitch (first row is purled). The outer sts on both sides are still edge-st, K
on every row.
Work chart A. The outer sts on both sides are edge-sts, K on every row. They are not shown in the
chart and are not included in the pattern. Begin and end by the arrows. When chart A has been
completed, you continue in stockinette stitch. Work (9) 11 (11) 13 (15) 17 rows (i.e. until you have
worked the same number of rows after chart A as the back section). End with a WS row. The back
section is approx. 2 cm [0.75”] shorter than the front.
Join the front and back as follows:
On the RS, knit until the last st in the front section, then k2tog this stitch with the first st of the
back section, knit to last st of the back section, k2tog this with the first front section st = (192) 216
(240) 264 (288) 312 sts. Place a marker here = beginning of round.

Body
= (192) 216 (240) 264 (288) 312 sts. Knit (4) 2 (2) 2 (2) 0 rounds in stockinette stitch (ie. there are
(14) 14 (14) 16 (18) 18 rounds of stockinette after chart A).
Work chart (B1) B2 (B1) B2 (B1) B2.
Note, sizes XS/S, L and 3XL: Adjust the stitch count to (-) 210 (-) 270 (-) 315 sts on the round
before the leaf motif so the chart fits exactly. The leaf motiv is the border in the middle of Chart
B2. Also adjust the stitch count on the first round after the leaf motif to the original st count:

Size XS/S:
Before the leaf motif: Decrease 6 sts evenly across the round: *K34, k2tog*. Work from * to * a
total of 6 times.
After the leaf motif: Increase 6 sts evenly across the round: *K35, M1L*. Work from * to * a total
of 6 times.

Size L:
Before the leaf motif: Increase 6 sts evenly across the round: *K44, M1L*. Work from * to * a
total of 6 times.
After the leaf motif: Increase 6 sts evenly across the round: *K43, k2tog*. Work from * to * a
total of 6 times.

Size 3XL:
Before the leaf motif: Increase 3 sts evenly across the round: *K104, M1L*. Work from * to * a
total of 3 times.
After the leaf motif: Increase 3 sts evenly across the round: *K103, k2tog*. Work from * to * a
total of 3 times.

For sizes XXS/XS, M and XL/2XL you do not need to adjust the stitch count.

© leKnit.com 5
All sizes, continue as follows, when chart (B1) B2 (B1) B2 (B1) B2 is finished:
Work (14) 14 (14) 16 (18) 18 rounds stockinette.
Work chart C. Work approx. 4 cm [1,5”] stockinette stitch - or until the work is 3-7 cm [1.25-2.75”]
shorter than desired length. You will achieve a well proportioned look with a minimum of 3 cm
[1.25”] and a maximum of (14) 14 (14) 16 (18) 18 rounds of stockinette stitch after Chart C.

Change to 3 mm [US3] circular needles on the last round.

Work rib (k1, p1) for 3-7 cm [1.25-2.75”], depending on your desired length.
Finish with double knitting as follows:
Round 1: *k1, slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.*. Repeat from * to * until the end of round.
Round 2: *slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in back, p1*. Repeat from * to * until the end of round.
Bind off using the Italian bind-off method.

Sleeves
Start at the under arm and pick up (80) 84 (84) 88 (90) 94 sts with a 4 mm [US6] circular needle
along the armhole. Sts are picked up one stitch in from the edge sts (inside the edge st) and you
pick up approx. 3 sts for every 4 rows and approx. 2 sts for every 3 sts along the borders.

Pick up and knit the stitches as follows: (7) 8 (8) 10 (11) 13 sts along the stockinette until border A,
(19) 20 (20) 20 (20) 20 sts along the border, pick up 28 sts between the two borders, (19) 20 (20)
20 (20) 20 sts along the border, (7) 8 (8) 10 (11) 13 sts after the border and until under the arm.
Work 4 cm i stockinette stitch. Work sleeve chart (B1) B2 (B1) B2 (B1) B2.

Note: The first st of the round is shown at the edge on the right of the chart (all sizes). After this,
the start and end are by the arrow for each size (all sizes are shown on the chart).
Decrease around the first st of the round on the 3 rounds in the chart, where there is one stitch
less in both sides. Decrease as follows: Work to the last st, slip 2 sts as if you were to knit them
together, k1, lift the slipped sts over.
After the decreases there are (74) 78 (78) 82 (84) 88 sts.

Work (14) 14 (14) 16 (18) 18 rounds in stockinette stitch (ie. same number of rounds as the body),
where you decrease when you have worked 2 and 12 rounds = (70) 74 (74) 78 (80) 84 sts.
Work chart C. Decrease around the first st of the round on the 3 rounds in the chart, where there
is one stitch less in both sides.
After the decreases there are (64) 68 (68) 72 (74) 78 sts.
Work in stockinette stitch until the rib.
Sizes L (XL/2XL) 3XL: Decrease when you have worked 2 rounds = (-) - (-) 70 (72) 76 sts.

Work in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 36 cm [14.25”] or 7 cm [2.75”] less than
desired length.
Change to 3 mm [US3] DPNs and work 1 round is stockinette stitch. Work rib (k1, p1,) for 7 cm
[2.75”].
Work 2 rounds of double knitting as described on the body. Bind off using the Italian bind-off
method.

© leKnit.com 6
Neck band
Pick up approx. (104) 108 (112) 112 (112) 116 sts along the neckline with a 3 mm [US3] needle:
approx. (37) 39 (41) 41 (41) 43 sts at the back of the neck, approx. (17) 19 (19) 19 (19) 21 sts along
the front and approx. (25) 25 (26) 26 (26) 26 sts along each side.
Work rib (k1, p1) for 7 cm [2,75”].
You will now fold the neck band and knit it in place: pick up sts, with a second 3 mm [US3] needle,
80 cm [32”], and without the working yarn. Pick up 1 st in every 2nd st (every purl st) along the
cast-on edge = approx. (52) 54 (56) 56 (56) 58 sts.
Note: pick up the sts on the inside of the neckband, so any seaming will be hidden inside.
Hold the 2 circular needles together so the neck band is folded. Knit stitches together and cast off
as follows: *knit the first stitch on both needles together, purl 1 (first st on the short needle)*.
Repeat from * to * around while also binding off.

© Lene Holme Samsøe 2024 – pattern is solely for private use and must not be resold, shared
or copied. Systematic sale of products made using this pattern is not permitted.
Please share your versions of the Porcelain Damask Sweater on Instagram
#porcelaindamasksweater #leknit @leneholmesamsoe

© leKnit.com 7
© leKnit.com 8
© leKnit.com 9