Sophorine.EN
Sophorine.EN
Notes
Sophorine is a versatile top which can be worked with short set-in sleeves or as a sleeveless
top. It features a V-neck and options to work texture, colour stripes, or mix both.
It's a straightforward project with simple details, a canvas for creative summer garments.
Pattern, pictures and notes © Audrey Borrego. This pattern is for personal use only.
Yarn :
Fingering to Sport weight yarn.
The samples are knit with Purl Soho Santolina (300 m – 328 yds / 100 g) in Beige Bunny
(Tee), Heirloom white (Top MC) and Robin redbreast (Top CC).
Needles :
Main Fabric : 3.25 mm (US 3) circular needles with appropriate length to knit in the
round and magic loop or DPNs.
Ribbing : 3 mm (US 2.5) circular needles with appropriate length to knit in the round and
magic loop or DPNs.
or size required to get gauge
Gauge :
23 sts x 35 rows / rnds per 10 cm – 4" with main needles in stockinette after blocking
Notions :
Stitch markers, tapestry needle and scissors
Scrap yarn to place sts on hold
Row counter recommended
Techniques used :
Top down set-in sleeves tee or sleeveless top
Purl or colour stripes
Upper body worked flat
Shoulders shaped with German short rows
V-neck shaping with simple increases
Straight Body worked in the round
Optional German short rows bust darts (based on cup size)
Tee : Short set-in sleeves shaped with Wrap & Turn short rows, fitted with simple and
double decreases
Top : Armhole edgings fitted with double decreases at the underarm
Half twisted rib Hem, Cuffs & Collar
Picking up sts
German Twisted, Backwards Loop Cast on
Basic Bind-off
Sophorine 2
Sizes : 1 (2 / 3 / 4 / 5), 6 (7 / 8 / 9 / 10)
All measurements are those of the finished top.
Choose a size with -5 to +5 cm – -2 to +2" ease at bust.
If you are in between sizes, size down.
Shown in size 3 on a 95 cm – 37 ½" bust and a 35 cm – 13 ¾" upper arm.
Sophorine 3
Sophorine 4
Abbreviations :
– MC : main colour / CC : contrast colour
– CO : cast-on
– st(s) : stitch(es) / rnd(s) : round(s)
– BOR : beginning of round
– RS : right side / WS : wrong side
– m : marker / pm : place marker / sm : slip marker / rm : remove marker
– inc : increase / dec : decrease
– k : knit stitch / p : purl stitch
– ktbl : knit the st through its back loop
– m1L : make 1 left, lift the bar between the stitches onto the left needle from front to
back, knit through the back loop (1 inc)
– m1R : make 1 right, lift the bar between the stitches onto the left needle from back to
front, knit through the front loop (1 inc)
– k2tog : knit the next 2 sts together (1 dec)
– ssk : slip the next 2 sts knitwise separately then knit them together through their
back loop (1 dec)
– s2kp : slip the next 2 sts together knitwise, k1 then pass slipped sts over (2 dec)
– DS : double stitch for German short rows (counts as only 1 st)
– w&t : wrap and turn short row, bring yarn to front, slip the next st purlwise, bring
yarn to back, slip the st back to the left needle and turn work
– *-* : repeat instructions between asterisks
Notes :
Left and Right parts refer to the top when worn.
Sophorine 5
Stripe pattern :
You can choose to work purl or colour stripes, or even mix both by working a purl stripe
within each colour stripe. Feel free to also play with the placement and height of the
stripes.
Here are the stripes sequences followed by the samples :
Purl Stripe :
Work 6 rows / rnds in stockinette (knitting RS rows and purling WS rows).
Work 1 row / rnd of purl stripe (purling on the RS, knitting on the WS).
The beige sample worked the purl stripe pattern on the upper body only.
Colour Stripes :
MC 10 rows / rnds.
CC 4 rows / rnds.
The white and red sample worked in stripe pattern all over and worked all ribbings with
MC (white).
Carrying unused colour : when a stripe is over 2 rows / rnds, carry the other colour
upwards by loosely twisting the two strands together on the edge of your work or at the
BOR.
Sophorine 6
You will be casting on and working each If your row gauge is different than the
front separately. pattern's, you can adjust here to make sure
Front Left you still reach the correct armhole and
While shaping the shoulders, you will work neck depth.
in stockinette (knitting RS rows and In the following shaping sections (V neck
purling WS rows) using your MC. and armhole shaping), you will knit : 54
(50 / 60 / 56 / 64), 64 (70 / 70 / 74 / 78)
With larger needles, CO 18 (20 / 20 / 22 / rows. Calculate how much those will
24), 26 (28 / 30 / 32 / 34) sts using the measure with your row gauge, and deduct
German Twisted Cast-on. this number from the total depth required
(German Twisted Cast-on tutorial by Very for your size to figure out how much length
Pink Knits) to work prior to the shaping.
If you make changes or are working
set-up row (WS) : purl different colour stripes, be mindful of how
they will land at the end of the V neck. Plan
Shoulder shaping : your colour placement ahead not to have a
You will work a few short rows to create a split stripe at the body joining point unless
slope on the shoulders. it's a wide enough stripe to be pleasing
around the V neck point.
Here is a helpful tutorial on how to make Note down any modifications to replicate
Double Stitches. them later on the other front.
(German short-rows tutorial by Very Pink
Knits) row 3 (RS) : k2, m1L, stripe pattern to last
2 sts, k2 (1 inc)
short row 1 (RS) : knit to last 2 sts, turn row 4 (WS) : p2, stripe pattern to last 2
short row 2 (WS) : DS, purl to end sts, p2
short row 3 : knit to 3 (4 / 4 / 4 / 5), 6 row 5 : k2, stripe pattern to last 2 sts, k2
(6 / 7 / 7 / 8) sts before DS, turn row 6 : p2, stripe pattern to last 2 sts, p2
Work short rows 2-3 a total of 3 times, then Work rows 3 to 6 a total of 10 (8 / 10 / 8 /
work short row 2 once more. 9), 8 (9 / 8 / 8 / 8) times, then work rows
3-4 once more.
next row (RS) : knit to end, closing the 29 (29 / 31 / 31 / 34), 35 (38 / 39 / 41 /
short rows by knitting the DS normally as 43) sts
one st
next row (WS) : purl Armhole shaping :
You will work increases to shape the
Start following your desired stripe pattern. armholes, while continuing the V neck
When working a purl stripe, always keep 2 shaping.
stockinette edge sts on each side. Attach a marker here on the armhole edge
Neck shaping : st to easily spot the beginning of the
You will work straight, then with increases armhole shaping so you can match it later
to create the V neck edge. on the back and during sleeve cap shaping.
row 1 (RS) : k2, stripe pattern to last 2 sts, row 1 (RS) : k2, m1L, stripe pattern to last
k2 2 sts, m1R, k2 (2 inc)
row 2 (WS) : p2, stripe pattern to last 2 row 2 (WS) : p2, stripe pattern to last 2
sts, p2 sts, p2
Following rows 1-2, work a total of 8 (16 / Work rows 1-2 a total of 6 (8 / 9 / 11 / 13),
10 / 16 / 12), 16 (14 / 16 / 16 / 16) rows. 15 (16 / 18 / 20 / 22) times.
Sophorine 7
41 (45 / 49 / 53 / 60), 65 (70 / 75 / 81 / Armhole shaping :
87) sts Attach a marker here on the armhole edge
st.
Cut yarn and put sts on hold.
row 1 (RS) : k2, m1L, stripe pattern to last
2 sts, m1R, k2 (2 inc)
Front Right row 2 (WS) : p2, stripe pattern to last 2
With larger needles, CO 18 (20 / 20 / 22 / sts, p2
24), 26 (28 / 30 / 32 / 34) sts using the
German Twisted Cast-on. Work rows 1-2 a total of 6 (8 / 9 / 11 / 13),
15 (16 / 18 / 20 / 22) times.
set-up row 1 (WS) : purl 41 (45 / 49 / 53 / 60), 65 (70 / 75 / 81 /
set-up row 2 (RS) : knit 87) sts
Sophorine 8
Joining Back Shoulders Note : the beige sample stopped following
You will join the two back shoulders by the purl stripe pattern here and worked in
casting-on extra sts for the back neck using stockinette (knitting every rnd) for the rest
the backwards loop cast-on. of the project.
(Backwards Loop Cast-on tutorial by Very Joining Body
Pink Knits) You will join the fronts and the back,
casting on new sts at each underarm and
Start following your desired stripe pattern. at the center of the V neck using a
backwards loop cast-on.
next row (RS) : k2, stripe pattern to end
of Back Left Shoulder sts, CO 33 (33 / 35 / next row (RS) : stripe pattern to end of
35 / 35), 35 (35 / 35 / 35 / 35) sts Upper Back sts, CO 4 (6 / 9 / 11 / 11), 12 (14
Place the Back Right Shoulder sts back on / 15 / 16 / 17) sts, pm for side, CO 5 (7 / 9 /
the left needle with RS facing, joining them 11 / 11), 13 (14 / 16 / 16 / 17) sts
to the new sts, and work them as follows : Place Front Right sts back on the left needle
stripe pattern to last 2 sts, k2 with RS facing, joining them to the new sts
and work stripe pattern to end.
69 (73 / 75 / 79 / 83), 87 (91 / 95 / 99 / CO 3 sts.
103) sts Place Front Left sts back on the left needle
with RS facing, joining them to the new sts
and work stripe pattern to end.
Upper Back CO 5 (7 / 9 / 11 / 11), 13 (14 / 16 / 16 / 17)
row 1 (WS) : p2, stripe pattern to last 2 sts, pm for BOR, CO 4 (6 / 9 / 11 / 11), 12
sts, p2 (14 / 15 / 16 / 17) sts
row 2 (RS) : k2, stripe pattern to last 2 sts,
k2 Join to work in the round.
184 (208 / 230 / 254 / 276), 300 (322 /
Work rows 1-2 until the upper back length 346 / 368 / 392) sts
matches the fronts' before the beginning of
the armhole shaping, using the markers
placed on the edges as a guide and ending Body
after a WS row. Bust darts :
If you wear a cup size greater than B or
Armhole shaping : your full bust measurement is more than 8
Attach two markers here on the armhole cm – 3 ¼" larger than your upper chest
edge sts on each side. measurement, consider adding bust darts
on the body. See instructions on page 13.
row 1 (RS) : k2, m1L, stripe pattern to last
2 sts, m1R, k2 (2 inc) Make sure to maintain the same gauge
row 2 (WS) : p2, stripe pattern to last 2 than previously now that you're working
sts, p2 in the round. Adjust needle size if
necessary.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 6 (8 / 9 / 11 / 13),
15 (16 / 18 / 20 / 22) times. If you are working colour stripes, you will
81 (89 / 93 / 101 / 109), 117 (123 / 131 / need to cut the colour not used while
139 / 147) sts joining the body and rejoin it at the BOR.
Work in your desired stripe pattern until
the body measures about 25 cm – 9 ¾"
from the underarm or 2.5 cm – 1" less than
desired length.
Sophorine 9
When working a colour stripe project, end Join to work in the round and pm for BOR.
after a full MC stripe. 69 (83 / 94 / 110 / 118), 133 (144 / 159 /
When working a purl stripe project, end 166 / 184) sts
after the stockinette rnds.
Sleeve Cap Shaping :
Hem : You will work short rows to shape the
Switch to smaller needles. sleeve cap using wrap & turn short rows.
ribbing rnd : *k1tbl, p1* to end You will be working along the armhole
shaping lines, using the markers attached
Work the ribbing rnd until the hem on the edge sts previously as starting
measures 2.5 cm – 1" or desired length. points. You will not need to pick up the
Loosely bind-off all sts in pattern using a wrap when closing the short rows as they
larger needle size if necessary. sit on the shoulder line.
(Knitting Help : Wrap & Turn by Very Pink
Knits)
You can now choose to work sleeves or keep
the top sleeveless and work armhole Switch to larger needles.
edgings. short row 1 (RS) : knit to last 13 (18 /
21 / 25 / 27), 30 (34 / 37 / 39 / 42) sts
Sleeves (second armhole shaping m), w&t
As shown on the beige sample. short row 2 (WS) : purl to last 12 (17 / 21
/ 25 / 27), 31 (34 / 38 / 39 / 42) sts (first
You will pick up sts around the armholes armhole shaping m), w&t
with a smaller needle for a neater short row 3 : knit to last wrapped st, knit
transition. wrapped st without picking up its wrap, w&t
Sizes 1, 2, 6 and 8 : as your underarm cast- short row 4 : purl to last wrapped st, purl
on is an odd number of sts, you will start 1 wrapped st without picking up its wrap, w&t
st to the left of the center st.
Work short rows 3-4 until 4 (6 / 9 / 11 / 11),
Using smaller needles, RS facing, starting at 12 (14 / 15 / 16 / 17) sts remain on the WS
the center of the underarm cast-on, pick up row after the last wrapped st. You have
and knit : worked short rows along the armhole
4 (6 / 9 / 11 / 11), 12 (14 / 15 / 16 / 17) sts shaping, stopping just at the underarm sts
(every st) from the underarm cast-on, corner.
8 (11 / 12 / 14 / 16), 18 (20 / 22 / 23 / 25)
sts (about 2 out of 3 sts) up to the first Sizes 1, 2, 6 and 8 ONLY :
armhole shaping m, next row (RS) : knit to 3 sts before BOR,
22 (24 / 26 / 30 / 32), 36 (38 / 42 / 44 / ssk, k1 (1 dec)
50) sts (about 1 out of 2 sts) up to the 68 (82 / - / - / -), 132 (- / 158 / - / -) sts
shoulder join,
22 (24 / 26 / 30 / 32), 36 (38 / 42 / 44 / Sizes 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 and 10 ONLY :
50) sts (about 1 out of 2 sts) down to the next row (RS) : knit to BOR
second armhole shaping m,
8 (11 / 12 / 14 / 16), 18 (20 / 22 / 23 / 25)
sts (about 2 out of 3 sts) down to the
underarm,
5 (7 / 9 / 11 / 11), 13 (14 / 16 / 16 / 17) sts
(every st) from the rest of the underarm
cast-on.
Sophorine 10
ALL SIZES RESUME Armhole Edgings
You will now resume working in the round As shown on the white and red sample.
and place markers on the top of the sleeve
to mark the placement of decreases. Sizes 1, 2, 6 and 8 : as your underarm cast-
set-up rnd : k28 (33 / 39 / 45 / 47), 53 on is an odd number of sts, you will start 1
(57 / 63 / 66 / 73), pm, k12 (16 / 16 / 20 / st to the left of the center st.
24), 26 (30 / 32 / 34 / 38), pm, knit to end
Using smaller needles, RS facing and
sleeve rnd 1 : knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, starting at the center of the underarm cast-
sm, knit to m, sm, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, on, pick up and knit
s2kp removing BOR m and replacing it after 4 (6 / 9 / 11 / 11), 12 (14 / 15 / 16 / 17) sts
the dec (4 dec) (every st) from the underarm cast-on,
sleeve rnd 2 : knit 91 (95 / 98 / 104 / 108), 111 (114 / 119 /
124 / 128) sts (about 2 out of 3 sts) evenly
Work the sleeve rnds 1-2 a total of 3 (5 / 7 / around the armhole,
9 / 10), 11 (11 / 13 / 14 / 16) times. 5 (7 / 9 / 11 / 11), 13 (14 / 16 / 16 / 17) sts
Note : Try on the sleeve as you go to check (every st) from the rest of the underarm
the fit. You may work more or less cast-on.
decreases if you want a tighter or looser
sleeve. Join to work in the round and pm for BOR.
100 (108 / 116 / 126 / 130), 136 (142 / 150
56 (62 / 66 / 74 / 78), 88 (100 / 106 / / 156 / 162) sts
110 / 120) sts
set-up rnd : *p1, k1tbl* to last 2 sts, p1, k1
If necessary, work in stockinette (knitting
every rnd) until the sleeve measures 2.5 cm You will work central double decreases at
– 1" less than desired length. the center under the arm to slightly curve
the armhole edging.
Switch to smaller needles. Remove the ribbing rnd 1 : work as established (ktbl
markers on the top of the sleeve in the the twisted sts and p the purl sts) to 2 sts
following rnd. before end, s2kp removing BOR m and
ribbing rnd : *k1tbl, p1* to end replacing it after the dec (2 dec)
ribbing rnd 2 : work as established to last
Work the ribbing rnd until the ribbing st, k1
measures 2.5 cm – 1" or desired length.
Loosely bind-off all sts in pattern using a Work ribbing rnds 1-2 a total of 3 times.
larger needle size if necessary. 94 (102 / 110 / 120 / 124), 130 (136 /
144 / 150 / 156) sts
Repeat for second sleeve. Loosely bind-off all sts in pattern using a
larger needle size if necessary.
Sophorine 11
Collar Finishing
With smaller needles, RS facing and Weave in all ends and gently block the top.
starting on the right shoulder line, pick up
and knit
9 sts (about 2 out of 3 sts) from the right
back curve,
33 (33 / 35 / 35 / 35), 35 (35 / 35 / 35 /
35) sts (every st) from the back neck,
9 sts (about 2 out of 3 sts) from the left back
curve,
49 (53 / 55 / 61 / 65), 69 (71 / 77 / 81 / 85)
sts (about 2 out of 3 sts) along the left
front,
pick up and knit 2 sts from the neck cast-on
at the center of the V neck, pm, pick up and
knit the last st from the V neck center,
49 (53 / 55 / 61 / 65), 69 (71 / 77 / 81 / 85)
sts (about 2 out of 3 sts) along the right
front.
Sophorine 12
Bust darts instructions :
Work the body until it measures about 2 cm
– ¾" from the underarm, or until you reach
the fullest part of your bust.
short row 1 (RS) : knit to 1 st before BOR short row 1 (RS) : knit to 1 st before BOR
m, turn m, turn
short row 2 (WS) : DS, purl t0 1 st before short row 2 (WS) : DS, purl t0 1 st before
side m, turn side m, turn
short row 3 : DS, knit to 3 (4 / 4 / 5 / 5), short row 3 : DS, knit to 2 (2 / 2 / 3 / 3),
6 (6 / 7 / 7 / 8) sts before last DS, turn 4 (4 / 5 / 5 / 6) sts before last DS, turn
short row 4 : DS, purl to 3 (4 / 4 / 5 / 5), Short row 4 : DS, purl to 2 (2 / 2 / 3 / 3),
6 (6 / 7 / 7 / 8) sts before last DS, turn 4 (4 / 5 / 5 / 6) sts before last DS, turn
Work short rows 3-4 a total of 3 times. Work short-rows 3-4 a total of 5 times.
short row 9 (RS) : DS, knit to end, short row 13 (RS) : DS, knit to end,
closing the short-rows by knitting the DS closing the short-rows by knitting the DS
normally as one st normally as one st
Sophorine 13
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