BREEZY BACK BLOUSE

by wool and beyond / elin berlin

This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only, and may not be copied, resold
or redistributed. Please share your version of Breezy Back Blouse on Instagram
with #breezybackblouse #woolandbeyond / @woolandbeyond
BREEZY BACK BLOUSE

Sizes: XS, S (M, L, XL) 2XL, 3XL

Chest width (garment): 100, 105 (110, 115, 124) 130, 142 cm
(about 15 cm positive ease)

Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette stitch

Needles: 4.5 mm circular needles, 60-100 cm cable
3 mm circular needles, 40 cm cable

Material (long sleeves): Yarn 1: 75, 100 (100, 125, 125) 125, 150 g Järbo Fin Mohair Silke
Yarn 2: 220, 250 (240, 260, 280) 300, 330 g Järbo 2-trådig Ull
(Yarn 1 and 2 are held double together)
Yarn 3: 50, 50 (50, 50, 50) 50, 50 g Istex Kambgarn
(Yarn 3 is used for the ribbed edges)
…or yarn that gives the same gauge.

Material (short sleeves): Yarn 1: 75, 75 (75, 100, 100) 125, 125 g Järbo Fin Mohair Silke
Yarn 2: 200, 220 (240, 260, 280) 300, 330 g Järbo 2-trådig Ull
(Yarn 1 and 2 are held double together)
Yarn 3: 50, 50 (50, 50, 50) 50, 50 g Istex Kambgarn
(Yarn 3 is used for the ribbed edges)
…or yarn that gives the same gauge.

Please note that the yarn consumption also depends on the type
of finish you make on the body/sleeves.

ABOUT THE PATTERN:

Breezy Back Blouse is an oversized sweater with a dropped shoulder and cut out details in the back.
The sleeves and the body are finished with an i-cord edge.

You begin working the back by knitting the shoulders separately while slightly shaping them using
german short rows. The top cut-out detail is shaped using increases, and after that you join the
shoulders to work on the back until you reach the armholes. The next step is to pick up and knit a
ribbed edge along the top cut-out detail before you begin working on the front. You then pick up and
knit stitches along the cast-on edges for the front shoulders and work them separately while you
shape the neckline, before you join to knit the front. Once you’ve finished shaping the armholes you
join the front and the back as well as cast on stitches for the armholes. Almost immediately you begin
to shape the lower cut-out detail, which means that most of the body is worked back and forth before
it’s finished with an i-cord edge.

Then you make the ribbed edges along the bottom cut-out detail as well as the neckline. Finally you
pick up and knit stitches for the sleeves which are slightly shaped using decreases and finished off
with an i-cord edge.

Always knit a swatch to check your gauge before you start your project!

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TECHNIQUES:

German short rows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn28lla3W9s

About selvedge stitches (selv):

This pattern uses selvedge stitches (selv) to create edges which are easy to pick up and knit sts
along. The first stitch on a row is always slipped purl wise, and the last stitch is always knitted.

Italian bind off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nX1Fkf5n7v8

ABBREVIATIONS:
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
st/s = stitch/stitches
k = knit
p = purl
selv = selvedge stitch
m1l = insert left needle under strand between two sts from front to back, then knit the strand tbl
m1r = insert left needle under strand between two sts from back to front, then knit the strand
ssk = slip 1 st, slip the next st, put the 2 sts back on left needle and k2tog tbl
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
inc/dec = increase/decrease
wyif = with yarn in front
tbl = through the back loop

INSTRUCTIONS:
RIGHT SHOULDER (BACK):
Hold yarn 1+2 double and use the recommended size 4.5 mm needles.
Cast on 24, 25 (26, 27, 29) 32, 35 sts.
Work 1 row like this: selv, purl until you have 1 st left, selv.

Work german short rows to shape the shoulder, like this:

Row 1 (RS): Selv, knit 6, 6, (6, 6, 7) 8, 8, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl until you have 1 st left, selv.
Row 3 (RS): Selv, knit until the last turn, knit 6, 6 (6, 6, 7) 8, 8, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Purl until you have 1 st left, selv.
Repeat row 3-4 one more time.

Continue to work in stockinette stitch with selvedge sts along the sides, until the shortest side of
your work (towards the armhole) measures about 13, 13 (12, 12, 11) 11, 10 cm. On the next row you’ll
begin to shape the top cut-out detail with increases along the right side of your work.
The increases are made on every row from the RS.
inc-Row (RS): Selv, k2, m1l, knit until you have 1 st left, selv.
inc-Row (WS): Selv, purl until the last st, selv.
Make a total of 3, 3 (4, 4, 5) 5, 5 increases = 27, 28 (30, 31, 34) 37, 40 sts.

Break the yarn and put the right shoulder on hold while you work on the left shoulder.
Leave the sts on the cable or put them on a stitch wire or scrap yarn.

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LEFT SHOULDER (BACK):
Cast on 24, 25 (26, 27, 29) 32, 35 sts.
Work german short rows to shape the shoulder, like this:
Row 1 (WS) : Selv, purl 6, 6, (6, 6, 7) 8, 8, turn.
Row 2 (RS) : Knit until you have 1 st left, selv.
Row 3 (WS) : Selv, purl until the last turn, purl 6, 6 (6, 6, 7) 8, 8, turn.
Row 4 (RS) : Knit until you have 1 st left, selv.
Repeat row 3-4 one more time.

Continue to work in stockinette stitch with selvedge sts along the sides until the shortest side of
your work (towards the armhole) measures about 13, 13 (12, 12, 11) 11, 10 cm. On the next row you’ll
begin to shape the top cut-out detail with increases along the left side of your work.
The increases are made on every row from the RS.
inc-Row (RS): Selv, knit until you have 3 sts left, m1r, k2, selv.
inc-Row (WS): Selv, purl until the last st, selv.
Make a total of 3, 3 (4, 4, 5) 5, 5 increases = 27, 28 (30, 31, 34) 37, 40 sts.

BACK:
On the next row from the RS you’ll join the shoulders. Begin to work on the left shoulder: selv, knit
until you have 3 sts left, m1r, k3, cast on 14, 16 (16, 18, 19) 19, 20 sts, begin to work on the right
shoulder: k3, m1l, knit until you have 1 st left, selv = 70, 74 (78, 82, 89) 95, 102 sts.

Continue to work in stockinette stitch with selvedge sts along the sides until the outer edge of your
work (towards the armholes) measures about 20, 20.5 (21, 21.5, 22) 22.5, 23 cm.

Next you’ll begin to shape the armholes using increases along both sides on every row from the RS.
inc-Row (RS): selv, k2, m1l, knit until you have 3 sts left, m1r, k2, selv.
inc-Row (WS): Selv, purl until the last st, selv.
Make a total of 3 increases along either side = 76, 80 (84, 88, 95) 101, 108 sts.
Break the yarn and put the back on hold while you work the ribbed edge along the top cut-out detail,
as well as the front. Leave the sts on the cable or put them on a stitch wire or scrap yarn.

RIBBED EDGE ALONG TOP CUT-OUT DETAIL:

Use yarn 3 and 3 mm needles. You’ll now pick up and knit a ribbed edge along the top cut-out detail
from the RS. Start at the right side of the top cut-out detail. Pick up and knit an even amount of sts.
When you pick up and knit sts along the cut-out detail I recommend that you do it like this:
ALONG THE SIDES: *1 st in 1 slipped st, 1 st in the loop between 2 slipped sts* repeat *-*
ALONG THE BOTTOM: *1 st in 1 st, 1 st in the gap between 2 sts, 1 st in 1 st* repeat *-*

After you’ve picked up your sts work one row from the WS, like this:
k1, p1 *k1, p1* until you have 1 sts left, k1.
Then continue according to the instructions below:
Row 1 (RS): k1, *k1, p1* until you have 2 sts left, k2.
Row 2 (WS): k1, p1 *k1, p1* until you have 1 sts left, k1.
Work a total of 9 rows.

On the next row from the RS make the two set-up rows for the tubular italian bind off, like this:
RS: k2, *sl1wyif, k1* repeat *-* until the last st, k1.
WS: k1, *sl1wyif, k1* repeat *-* until the end of the row.
Bind off all sts from the RS using Italian bind off and make sure to do quite a tight bind off.

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LEFT SHOULDER (FRONT):
Hold yarn 1+2 double and use the recommended size 4.5 mm needles.
Pick up and knit 24, 25 (26, 27, 29) 32, 35 sts along the cast on edge for the left back shoulder.
Work back and forth in stockinette stitch with selvedge sts along the sides until the left front shoulder
measures about 12, 12.5 (13, 13, 13.5) 14, 14 cm.

On the next row from the RS you’ll begin to shape the neckline with increases along the right side
of your work. The increases are made on every row from the RS, like this:
inc-Row (RS): Selv, k2, m1l, knit until you have 1 st left, selv.
inc-Row (WS): Selv, purl until the last st, selv.
Make a total of 3, 3 (4, 4, 5) 5, 5 increases = 27, 28 (30, 31, 34) 37, 40 sts.
Break the yarn and put the left shoulder on hold while you work on the right shoulder.
Leave the sts on the cable or put them on a stitch wire/scrap yarn.

RIGHT SHOULDER (FRONT):

Pick up and knit 24, 25 (26, 27, 29) 32, 35 sts along the cast on edge for the right back shoulder.
Work back and forth in stockinette stitch with selvedge sts along the sides until the right front shoulder
measures about 12, 12.5 (13, 13, 13.5) 14, 14 cm.

On the next row from the RS you’ll begin to shape the neckline with increases along the left side
of your work. The increases are made on every row from the RS, like this:
inc-Row (RS): Selv, knit until you have 3 st left, m1r, k2, selv.
inc-Row (WS): Selv, purl until the last st, selv.
Make a total of 3, 3 (4, 4, 5) 5, 5 increases = 27, 28 (30, 31, 34) 37, 40 sts.

FRONT:
You’ll now join the right and the left shoulder. Begin to work on the right shoulder from the RS: selv,
knit until you have 3 sts left, m1r, k3, cast on 14, 16 (16, 18, 19) 19, 20 sts, begin working on the left
shoulder: k3, m1l, knit until you have 1 st left, selv = 70, 74 (78, 82, 89) 95, 102 sts.

Continue to work back and forth in stockinette stitch with selvedge sts along the sides until the front
measures about 22, 22.5 (23, 23.5, 24) 24.5, 25 cm.

Next you’ll begin to shape the armholes using increases on every row from the RS.
inc-Row (RS): selv, k2, m1l, knit until you have 3 sts left, m1r, k2, selv.
inc-Row (WS): Selv, purl until the last st, selv.
Make a total of 3 increases along either side = 76, 80 (84, 88, 95) 101, 108 sts.

BODY:
You’ll now join the front and the back and begin to work in the round. Begin to work on the front from
the RS: k3, m1l, knit until you have 3 sts left, m1r, k3, cast on 2 sts, begin to work on the back: k3,
m1l, knit until you have 3 sts left, m1r, k3, cast on 2 sts = 160, 168 (176, 184, 198) 210, 224 sts.
Place a marker to mark the beginning/end of the rnd and begin to work in the rnd.
Knit 3 rnds, or as long as you want your blouse to be before the bottom cut-out detail.

On the next rnd you’ll bind off the center back sts and begin to shape the bottom cut-out detail, like
this: knit 112, 117 (123, 128, 138) 147, 157 sts, bind off 14, 16 (16, 18, 19) 19, 20 sts, k2, ssk,
continue to knit until you have 4 sts left before the sts you bound off for the top of the bottom cut-out
detail, k2tog, k2 = 144, 150 (158, 164, 177) 189, 202 sts.
Continue to work back and forth. Work the next row from the WS, like this:
Selv, purl until you have 1 st left, selv.

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Continue to shape the bottom cut-out detail with decreases on every row from the RS.
dec-Row (RS): selv, k1, ssk, knit until you have 4 sts left, k2tog, k1, selv.
dec-Row (WS): Selv, purl until the last st, selv.
Make a total of 4, 4 (5, 5, 6) 6, 6 decreases along either side = 138, 144 (150, 156, 167) 179, 192 sts.
Continue to work back and forth in stockinette with selvedge sts along the sides until your work from
the bottom of the armhole measures about 28 cm, or as long as you want your sweater to be.
Finish the body the way you want it - see FINISH - BODY on the last page.

RIBBED EDGE ALONG BOTTOM CUT-OUT DETAIL:

Use yarn 3 and 3 mm needles. Pick up and knit a ribbed edge along the bottom cut-out detail. Start at
the left side of the bottom cut-out detail from the RS and pick up and knit an even amount of sts.
When you pick up and knit sts along the cut-out detail I recommend that you do it like this:
ALONG THE SIDES: *1 st in 1 slipped st, 1 st in the loop between 2 slipped sts* repeat *-*
ALONG THE BOTTOM: *1 st in 1 st, 1 st in the gap between 2 sts, 1 st in 1 st* repeat *-*

After you’ve picked up your sts you’ll begin to work from the WS, like this:
k1, p1 *k1, p1* until you have 1 sts left, k1.
Then continue according to the instructions below.
Row 1 (RS): k1, *k1, p1* until you have 2 sts left, k2.
Row 2 (WS): k1, p1 *k1, p1* until you have 1 sts left, k1.
Work a total of 9 rows.

On the next row from the RS make the two set-up rows for the tubular italian bind off, like this:
RS: k2, *sl1wyif, k1* repeat *-* until the last st, k1.
WS: k1, *sl1wyif, k1* repeat *-* until the end of the row.
Bind off all sts from the RS using Italian bind off, and make sure to do quite a tight bind off.

NECKLINE:
Use yarn 3 and 3 mm needles with 40 cm cable. You’ll now cast on sts above the top cut-out detail, as
well as pick up and knit sts along the neckline to make a ribbed edge. If you want to make a double
folded neckline there’s no need to use italian cast on, simply cast on the same amount of sts and skip
the set-up rows.

If you’re making a regular neckline use tubular italian cast on and cast on 21, 21 (23, 23, 25) 25, 27
sts. Work the 2 set-up rows for the tubular cast on like this:
RS: *k1, sl1wyif* repeat *-* until the last st, k1.
WS: *sl1wyif, k1* repeat *-* until the last st, p1.

Place the sweater in front of you with the back’s RS facing upwards, and the bottom cut-out detail
closest to you. Start at the corner of the ribbed edge along the left side of the top cut-out detail.
Pick up and knit 8 sts along the short side of the top cut-out details left ribbed edge, then continue to
pick up and knit an even amount of sts along the neckline.
When you pick up and knit sts along the neckline I recommend that you do it like this:
ALONG THE SIDES: *1 st in 1 slipped st, 1 st in the loop between 2 slipped sts* repeat *-*
ALONG THE BOTTOM: *1 st in 1 st, 1 st in the gap between 2 sts, 1 st in 1 st* repeat *-*
When you reach the end of the neckline - pick up and knit 8 sts along the short side of the ribbed
edge at the right side of the top cut-out detail. Place a marker to mark the beginning/end of the rnd.
Begin to work in the rnd by first working the sts that you previously casted on above the top cut out
detail, like this: *k1, p1*.

Continue to work *k1, p1* until the end of the rnd until the neckline measures about 4 cm - or about 9
cm if you want to make a double folded neckline. If you’re making a double folded neckline simply

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bind it off, fold it towards the inside and sew it down along the cast on edge and the edge that formed
when you picked up and knitted sts.

If you’re making a regular neckline make the two set-up rnds for the tubular italian bind off, like this:
Rnd 1: *k1, sl1wyif* repeat *-* until the end of the rnd.
Rns 2: *sl1, p1* repeat *-* until the end of the row.
Bind off all sts using Italian bind off.

LONG SLEEVES:
Next you’ll pick up and knit sts along the armholes to knit the sleeves. Hold yarn 1+2 double and use
the recommended size 4.5 mm needles. The right and the left sleeve are worked the same way.

Start at the bottom of the armhole, in the left one of the two sts you previously casted on.
When you pick up and knit sts along the armhole I recommend that you do it like this: *5 st in slipped
sts, 1 st in the loop between 2 slipped sts* repeat *-*. Place a marker when you reach the end of the
armhole to mark the beginning/end of the rnd. Make sure to note how many sts you picked up so that
you’ll pick up the same amount of sts for the next sleeve!

On the first rnd I recommend that you knit all sts through the back loop to minimize the risk of
gaps/holes in your work. Work the sleeve in stockinette stitch, AND decrease every 4.5 cm, like this:
dec-Rnd: ktog, knit until you have 2 sts left, ssk.
Make a total of 10 dec-Rnds. Once your sleeve measures about 50 cm, or as long as you want you
can finish it the way you want it - see FINISH - SLEEVE on the last page.
Knit the other sleeve the same way.

SHORT SLEEVES:
Next you’ll pick up and knit sts along the armholes to knit the sleeves. Hold yarn 1+2 double and use
the recommended size 4.5 mm needles. The right and the left sleeve are worked the same way.

Start at the bottom of the armhole, in the left one of the two sts you previously casted on.
When you pick up and knit sts along the armhole I recommend that you do it like this: *5 st in slipped
sts, 1 st in the loop between 2 slipped sts* repeat *-*. Place a marker when you reach the end of the
armhole to mark the beginning/end of the rnd. Make sure to note how many sts you picked up so that
you’ll pick up the same amount of sts for the next sleeve.

On the first rnd I recommend that you knit all sts through the back loop to minimize the risk of
gaps/holes in your work. Work the sleeve in stockinette stitch, AND decrease every 4th rnd, like this:
dec-Rnd: ktog, knit until you have 2 sts left, ssk.
Make a total of 7 dec-Rnds. Knit 12 rnds. Finish the sleeve the way you want it. See FINISH -
SLEEVE on the last page. Knit the other sleeve the same way.

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FINISHES:

BODY I-CORD:
Break the yarn. Make an i-cord edge from the RS along the bottom of the body, like this:
Cast on 4 sts, slip the 4 sts onto the left needle (with the sts for the body), *k3, k2tog tbl, slip all sts
from the right needle to the left* repeat *-* until you've bound off the body and reached the other side
of your work. Break the yarn and pull the end through the last 4 sts.

BODY HEM:
Knit 1 rnd from the RS. On the next row from the WS: selv, knit until you have 1 st left, selv.
Then work 9 rows back and forth in stockinette stitch with selvedge stitches along the sides.
Bind off your work. Fold the hem towards the inside and sew it down.

SLEEVES I-CORD:
Break the yarn. Cast on 4 sts, slip the 4 sts onto the left needle (with the sts for the sleeve), *k3, k2tog
tbl, slip all sts from the right needle to the left* repeat *-* until you've bound off the sleeve and reached
the cast on edge for the i-cord. Break the yarn and sew the last 4 sts to the cast on edge of the i-cord
to create a seamless transition.

SLEEVES HEM:
Purl 1 rnd. Knit 9 rows. Bind off your work. Fold the hem towards the inside and sew it down.