CH Throttle Upgrade With Rel4y's 12 Bit PCB and Magnetic Sensor
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tumbCH Throttle Upgrade With Rel4y's 12 Bit PCB and Magnetic Sensor
Uploaded by
tumb21.12.
2020
Rev – 00
Written by “Cheetah”
CH Throttle upgrade with rel4y’s 12 bit PCB and Magnetic Sensor
1. Open up your CH Pro Throttle by removing the 4 rubber legs and unscrewing all 4
Philips screws:
2. Put the USB cable aside and remove the 3 plugs (green, yellow, blue) from that old
Potentiometer. Now pull this Pot out of the base.
3. Next, slide in that new magnetic sensor and reconnect all 3 plugs to the sensor like that:
4. Note the colors order:
Bottom: GREEN
Middle: YELLOW
Upper: BLUE
5. After finishing the upgrade, the 3 color LEDs on top of the throttle base won’t work
anymore. So, if you want to have some kind of “power feedback” you’ll need to short out
two connections on this green PCB like shown in the following photos:
After bridging these two points you can screw this PCB back to place and move to the next
step.
6. Remove the 2 screws holding down the grip in the upper part of the throttle base, and pull
out gently that grip from its shaft:
7. Now, you can unscrew all the screws in the grip and open it up:
8. When it’s open, remove 4 plugs from the rectangular CH green PCB, unscrew that single
silver screw and take out that old 8 bit CH PCB forever
9. Install your new and shiny rel4y’s PCB instead that old CH PCB and tighten it in with the
silver screw.
10. Plug in only 3 connectors you just unplugged 2 minutes ago, it should look like that:
Note: the small connector isn’t connecting to anything now, so you can stash it somewhere
inside the grip.
11. This is a good time to check that all the wires are intact and soldered OK... mine were
not, so I had to re-solder two wires for the throttle’s buttons.
12. Now you can close the throttle, connect it to the PC and calibrate it in windows. Next
step is obviously FLY your favorite sim and feel the accuracy in your hands!
I also checked for functionality before closing everything:
13. OK, if you got to this point and have some switches lying around, you can easily use the
expansion bay on rel4y’s PCB to add a 2x3 Matrix or use one of his (or yours) shift
registers to add more switches than you can handle.
14. I wanted to add only 4 switches and used a matrix. Here’s what I did:
15. First, I ordered 4 switches – 1 x ON-OFF-ON, 1 x (ON)-OFF-(ON), 2 x ON-ON, and a
set of 10 diodes - Diodes on Aliexpress
16. Then, I drilled three 6 mm holes in the bottom half of the throttle’s base:
And one 6.5 mm hole in the upper half of the grip (the diameter corresponds to the specific
switch you have bought):
17. Now I installed all the switches but didn’t tighten them up yet.
18. Next, we need to start with the wiring and soldering phase… Here’s a diagram of the
Matrix I used and the corresponding ports on the PCB that I connected all the wires to.
19. Start with the diodes first, DO NOT mix-up their connection direction.
20. Next I soldered the wires (color coded) and made all the necessary bridging following the
above diagram. Please use shrink tubing wherever you can so there won’t be any
“mishaps” when you turn this thing on.
21. Now I soldered header pins to the PCB so it would be easier to insert and solder all the
wires.
22. Final work looks like this:
23. Now you can tighten up all the switches.
24. OK now, basically you’re all done with the hard stuff, you can now close off everything
and connect it to the PC.
25. Here’s mine connected on my rig:
Programming stage
26. Download the MMJOY program on this link (version 2016.08.18):
MMJOY2[v20160818upd1].rar
27. Open it and find your throttle on the USB device list on the left, choose it and press the:
“Load sets from device”.
28. Afterwards, you need to map the new buttons on the H/W Button list. And enter the
Button Matrix like so (step 1 in the following picture):
Rows = D0 D1 D3
Columns = B6 D2
Also don’t forget to delete the assignments under the Shift register category (to the right
of the Button matrix category:
Under SR-CS, change that D0 to --
Under SR-DATA, change that D1 to --
29. Now do steps 2 – 3 (in the above picture) and then you’re done!
30. Go to the windows calibration and check all your new switches and buttons for
functionality, if everything works ok, you can go into your favorite sim (mine is DCS )
and map all the buttons/switches/axes.
31. DONE!
*** This manual is FREE for distribution.
Big thanks goes to:
rel4y, for his great hardware (mag. Sensor and PCB)
Sokol1_br, S3TUP, Schredder and Uri_ba for the ideas, technical help and inspiration for this
project
And all the DCS DIY cockpit/joystick community wherever they are!
Cheetah, out! FLY SAFE!
